Ender 3 V2 BLTouch Firmware Installation Guide by Smith3D.com [Updated – 10 January 2020] 723

BLTouch Installation

If you are using a different extension wire, please pay attention to the wire colors above.

BLTouch Mount

BLTouch Mount for Ender3 V2 Link here (Use the two screws provided by BLTouch to screw it in.)

BLTouch Spacer Link here

Firmware

Unless your system is well tuned, please use the firmware above instead of high speed. Slow Probe & 5 x 5, which is great for first time tuning.

For 4.2.2 5×5 (High Speed) – download here
For 4.2.2 Filament Sensor 5×5 (High Speed) – download here
For 4.2.2 BTT Smart Sensor 5×5 (High Speed) – download here
For 4.2.7 Board 5×5 (High Speed) – download here
For more info regarding this release
For people who’s suffering random probe fails, please refer to the FAQ below for z switch port firmware.

If flashed & auto leveling doesn’t work, please reset configuration (Control > Restore Default) or try to flash again with different filename.

Alpha Build (V2.0.X.17) Future Releases

Alpha build is not well tested, with latest marlin firmware. with latest bug fixes & features, but at the same time may introduce new bugs.

What’s BL Touch High Speed Mode?

  • The high speed mode probes multiple points without stowing the needle, making it much much faster. But also prone to crashes if your bed is severely slanted. Please make good use of AUX leveling before you try this. For detailed changes, please refer to the configuration.h files in our github if you would like to know more.

For Ender 3 V2 no bootloader installation is required. Copy the firmware into your SD card and then slot it in, the printer will begin flashing once you reboot it. Do remember that you need a different filename each time you flash a new firmware eg. firmware1.1bin > firmware1.2bin, else the system will ignore it.

For user who would prefer official firmware from Creality, you may check this guide here

Some UI customizations we’ve added

We have modified some parts of the dwin UI to add more functions to assist user in AUX Leveling & Setting Z-Offset. You may find these functions under Prepare Menu.

For AUX Leveling, please refer to CHEP guide https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EfWVUJjBdA

Some other features we’ve improved

  • Refuel Menu. Feed & Retract Filament easily (for e-step calibration and filament changes)
  • Refresh hot swapped MicroSD upon enter Print menu, allow usage of MicroSD Card Adapter
  • Enabled M600 Filament Change
  • Fixes power recovery resume

And remember to add “M420 S1 Z2” in Cura!

VERY IMPORTANT Add M420 S1 Z2; after the G28 in your start G-code in the starting G-code of your cura profile. To enable leveling on every prints. As the current marlin for Ender 3 V2 is unable to make “leveling enabled” persistent after reboot. M420 S1 Z2 ;Enable ABL using saved Mesh and Fade Height Or M420 S ;Enable ABL using saved Mesh (If you are getting error for Fade Height) This line of code always appear in other printer profile such as CR10SProV2/Ender5Plus where there is BLTouch built in.

You can also add G29 for Bed Leveling before every prints

Instead of adding the M420 S1 Z2 command above. You can replace it with G29 (Place it after G28). G29 basically starts a new round of auto bed leveling , good for users who would prefer a fresh bed leveling before every prints.

Nozzle Crashing Into Bed?

Personally I have added a printed BLTouch spacer so BLTouch has more room for probing, and add some space between nozzle and bed. If you are facing issue where nozzle is hitting bed when BLTouch is probing, mostly caused by uneven bed (eg. sides nearer to hotend is higher), you might need to try adding a spacer. But do note that adding a spacer will make your z-offset at around -2+ BLTouch Spacer – https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3466223

Steps to produce a good leveling

  • Start with AUX leveling to make sure the bed is leveled as much as you can, by manually adjusting bed spring. This is to reduce the amount of Z compensation ABL will need to apply when printing. Please refer to CHEP’s guide for how you can level your bed with a piece of paper. We have included the buttons needed for printer to go to all 4 corners + center so you don’t have to do it via a gcode print file.
  • After the bed is leveled, get a good Z-offset by using our Z-Offset tool. Remember to pre-heat your nozzle while using this as any remaining material stuck on nozzle tip might interfere the result while gauging with A4 paper. This tool will Auto home and then move Z to 0 to show actual Z offset. Prepare a paper to put between nozzle and bed, then try sliding it in and out, adjust Z offset until you feel a little friction between paper and nozzle. Use Re-Home Z to double confirm if the z offset is the right one.
  • Once you got your Z offset, go to main menu and press “Leveling”. It will probe 3×3 points and save the mesh to your printer.
  • Done and start printing!
  • Again, it’s very important to heat up nozzle to 180-200 while using Z-offset Tool (if there is PLA in nozzle) Else the Z-offset will vary a lot depending on the leftover material stuck on nozzle tip.

What if you are not getting an accurate Z Offset from the Tool?

Sometimes moving the Z axis up and down bit by bit might cause a little slippages, which makes the Z-Offset gauging with A4 paper inaccurate.

If you want a better gauging result. We recommend user to set Z-Offset to the value you want, use “Re-Home Z button” to allow BLTouch to re-probe and show you a much more accurate Z offset result.

FAQ

Z-axis won’t budge

Pay attention to the wiring color, some wires are inverted. If you are using 3rd party wiring, most probably the last two orange and yellow are inverted. You have to manually revert it back using a tweezer.

Black Screen of Death after flashed

Please follow this reddit link for full guide on how to do a proper flash
In summary
– Use newly formated sd card, with only bin file
– Rename bin file
– Unplug & reconnect power cord

Bltouch probe not centered / change probe offset

You can either recompile the firmware or use gcode/pronterface/octopi to send marlin M851 command https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M851.html. Create a gcode file with only 1 line (e.g. M851 X-1.70 Y-1.30 Z 1.20)

AUX Leveled & still printing in mid air or nozzle hitting the bed

Use slow probe 5×5 firmware to see if the situation is improving, if not check if your M420/G29 is added inside the start of gcode. Use either G29 or M420. Remember to save setting after leveled.

Sometimes Probe doesn’t finish during leveling

Solution 1:
Some users has issue with the bltouch port. the trigger signal or ground is not attached properly. Connect the two pin to the z switch stop & flash the firmware below.



Download 2.0.x.16 ZSwitchStop 5×5 Fast Smith3d Marlin Firmware

Solution 2:
Try connect via Pronterface and check what’s the error code returned.

Summary (this reddit link explained in detail)
– Make sure bed not totally out of level, probe may out of reach or nozzle hit the bed first
– Check if your bed is badly warped
– Check if your bltouch pin is bent
– Check the XY axis wheel tension
– Check the Z axis for binding
– Bltouch is faulty (last resort)

Setting is not saved

Remember to click “Control > Store Setting” everytime you setup completed. Check if eeprom is deleted in SD Card.

Power Lose Recovery doesn’t work

Power Lose Recovery only works when it reached certain layer. check your SD card if there is a PLR file exist. PLR determine if to display the Resume Printing message.

Motor making noises and freeze during print.

This will happen if you just flashed the firmware & does not reset the configuration. Just turn off and on your printer will do, restore default setting. Another possible issue is the dupont connectors on the motherboard loosen, do hot glue the connectors in place or upgrade it to 5 pin JST connector.

Sometimes UI/ print progress bar does not reflect to the latest

Known marlin bug. Restart, press back, will do.

Can I use 3DTouch or BLTouch older than v3.1?

May not compatible, this firmware is optimized for BLTouch v3.1.

Where can I get the source code? How to compile?

Github Repository is here.

If you are having issue compiling your own marlin, remember to set default_envs = STM32F103RET6_creality in platform.ini

How to donate?

Please donate to Marlin Firmware for updating & supporting the Firmware for Ender 3 v2 & the community.

What happens If I don’t want a BLTouch anymore?

You may revert your firmware to the official non-BLTouch firmware downloadable via this link – https://www.creality.com/download/32

Past Versions

The firmware below uses High Speed Probe

For 3×3 – download here
For 4×4 – download here
For 5×5 – download here For MicroSwiss Ender 3 Hotend – download here (Adjusted X_MIN_POS to -5 and Y_MIN_POS to -10)

For the latest changelog, please refer to here

723 Comments

  1. How would I edit the firmware to allow up to 235×235 bed size if I’m printing near the edge?

  2. Thank you for the strong top at the top to check the wiring. Mine was wrong and it had foxed be over Christmas. With your advice it worked first time.
    Any advice for users of mattercontrol on setting up auto bed levelling?

  3. Thank you for putting together this guide! I have a quick question on the best way to troubleshoot the “Probe Failing” message.

    Running an ANTCLABS BLTouch with the base firmware linked in this guide (Marlin Firmware V2.0.x.14 – Slow 5×5 Probe).

    Everything was working great for a week or two but I just installed new springs on my bed this morning. Re-leveled everything manually, checked Z-Offset again, ran a manual auto leveling via printer and then saved configuration.

    I then tried printing as I had before (G28; followed by a G29;) and it failed about halfway through leveling with the “Probe Failing” message in Octoprint. Tried a few more times and had the same thing happen at some point throughout the 5×5 probes. Sometimes the first and sometimes the 2nd to last.

    Hooked up to Pronterface to try and get more info on what was happening so ran my G28; followed by my G29; but it ran to completion successfully. Tried over and over again and it works every time. Flipping back to my prints, it errors again.

    Any ideas or tips on what could be causing this?

    TL;DR – Getting “Probe Failing” when trying to print from Octoprint (G28; G29;) but get a successful run using Pronterface to debug the issue (G28; G29;)

    1. reseat the last two wire of your pin, or check the FAQ for “Sometimes Probe doesn’t finish during leveling”, i have updated with new firmware that uses Z Switch Stop instead.

      1. Hello,

        have you a configuration.h and configuration_adv.h for modify myself?

        I want to add speed between probe faster, G12 and M500 after G29 in script.

        When i want to add bltouch in the source code, i had error in compilation

        Scuse my english, i’m french

        Thanks

        1. it’s inside the git.

          1. ok thanks, i found

            it is possible of in the screen of my e3v2, when i touch bed leveling on the screen, the g28 is do before G29? where is the parameter in xcode?

  4. During my print on my V2 I try to manually adjust my Z offset. But I have noticed that when I adjust my negative offset from -3.78 to a more negative number (like -.05-ish or more Going towards more negative…) The nozzle will crash into the board then I have to quickly readjust my Z offset to somewhere about -0.12 For it to stop gouging into the glass bed… Then I have to keep it at -0.12 for the remainder of the print until I try to print again something else and then I have to go back to my offset of -3.78 and pray it doesn’t crash into the bed again…

    1. use 2.0.x.16, marlin has fixed the bug.

    2. I found that this version of firmware doesn’t like adjustments on the fly (baby stepping) I would suggest to just stop the print and adjust it and begin the print again.

      1. just use v2.0.x.16, marlin has fixed it.

    3. yea, me too. i try and adjust it for baby stepping and mine too just crashed into the build plate, why

      1. use v2.0.x.16

  5. Where is the 10th Jan firmware link?

    1. Hi …
      Look at the last numbers of the Files 😉
      https://github.com/smith3d/Marlin/releases/tag/2.0.x.16
      But will there be a Firmware with 5×5 SLOW Probe?
      CU Kai

      1. just added slow probe

        1. Thanks … I’ll try it soon 😉

  6. I’m having a lot of trouble with BLTouch on my Ender 3 V2; no matter how I set z-offset, the nozzle is always too high at the back of the bed (first layer barely adhering to the bed), and too low at the front (nozzle so low that it presses against the bed and no filament is extruded). I’ve tried both the 2.0.x.14 and the alpha 2.0.x.16 firmware, same result with both. All printer wheels are snug so there is not play in the bed or elsewhere, and the BLTouch is correctly mounted and connected. Could I have a faulty BLTouch? (It does fail self-test on printer startup fairly often, maybe 1 in every 4 times I start the printer.)

    1. wire maybe loose, or setting not saved. and also check the FAQ for the occasionally fail probe, you may need another setup, bltouch 2 pin on on the z switch port instead.

    2. same here

  7. thanks for the firmware. I used the original metal rack from creality to mount bltouch to my ender v2. so I have the nozzle not centered during print.
    creality is telling that the probe to nozzle difference is X -45mm and Y -7 mm but I can’t figure out how to use M851 in cure and not have to recompile every firmware from you in the future. would like to just put it into my start gcode and forget it

    any help how to calculate it correctly base on your firmware with the different printed rack mount

    1. create an empty gcode file with single line of M851 x-45 y-7
      then just run the gcode

      1. thanks, I did this but I see no difference at all. I confirmed this “print” but nothing happened and neither nozzle nor probe are in the middle. any ideas?

  8. Hi, I have tried the “Smith3D-E3V2-2.0.x.16-5×5-Fast-BTTSmartSensor-100121-octopi.bin” and it tells me that I have FilamentRunout T0 when there is defiantly firmament loaded.
    I tried the updated “Smith3D-E3V2-2.0.x.16-5×5-Fast-BTTSmartSensor-100121-octopi-2.bin” and i get the same error, does this sound like a fault with my sensor or could it be firmware ?

    1. try send m503, m500, m412 s1, m500, make sure u are using BTT Smart Sensor

      1. Yes, I am using the BTT Smart Sensor. its is plugged in and connected

        Send: M500, M412 S1, M500
        Recv: //action:notification Settings Stored
        Recv: ok
        […]
        Send: M412
        Recv: echo:Filament runout ON
        Recv: Filament runout distance (mm): 0.00
        Recv: ok

      2. This is the log from the output with Temps suppressed
        Recv: echo:Bed Leveling ON
        Recv: echo:Fade Height 2.00
        Recv: ok
        Send: N11 G1 Z2.0 F3000*43
        Recv: ok
        Send: N12 G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0*29
        […]
        Recv: echo:busy: processing
        Recv: ok
        Send: N13 G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15*82
        Recv: //action:prompt_end
        Recv: //action:prompt_begin FilamentRunout T0
        Recv: //action:prompt_show
        Recv: //action:paused filament_runout 0
        Printer signalled that it paused, switching state…
        Changing monitoring state from “Printing” to “Pausing”

      3. On further investigation
        If i remove the filament from the BTT Sensor, it stops prior to printing purge line prior with filament out.

        With filament back in it carries out the purge prior to stopping . so I would guess reading a filament snag signal ?

        1. hmm, interesting. have you tried to print without connecting it to octoprint?

          1. Thank you for your help

            Yes, i just tried that. it does the purge and then beeps at me and stops.
            frustrating
            Are there any code that i can send to test the Sensor that you know of (fault finding).. or do i need to talk to BTT ?

          2. I think you need to un-comment the following in the configuration.h

            //#define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_DISTANCE_MM 25

            from what i have read online this needs to be defined. If i am correct can you please up re-upload.

            Thank you

          3. the source is default but the filament runout distance we have set to #define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_DISTANCE_MM 7

          4. Ok, i now understand now about the source, thank you

            So when i sent M412 I am getting runout distance returned as 0mm, is this correct?

            Send: M412
            Recv: echo:Filament runout ON
            Recv: Filament runout distance (mm): 0.00
            Recv: ok

  9. First I have to say that I really like the UI…it’s so much clearer, great work….
    But unfortunately I have a little problem with my BLtouch v1.3 on my Ender 3 v2 with 4.2.2 board.
    I leveled my bed, used the z-tool and that worked without any problems.
    But when I click ‘Level’, it seems the nozzle (or probe) isn’t exacly in the middle and after it homed it first goinng to the left side.
    The BLtouch is outside the bed en de nozzle pushes on the bed, after that it stops and does nothing.

    I searched the internet, but could not find an answer.
    Please someone can help me.

    (sorry for my not so good english :-))

    1. I’m still struggling…am I the only one with this problem?

      1. use m851 to adjust the probe offset.

        1. Thank you for your answer, but I thought it was allready coded in the firmware.
          So I have to M851 my x and y axis?

          My BLtouch is going completely to the left outside the bed when I press level on the display.

          As I mentioned, the videos I have seen on the internet is that after homing the BLtouch is first going to right, mine is going to the left

          1. yes. M851 will fix this

  10. hello since i have updated my printer to the january 10 version my printer drives directly into the pressure plate when homing. and the motor no longer stops. what can i do?

    1. which firmware u updated to? is ur wiring correct? bltouch working?

  11. Guide is great, by-far the one I’ve had the most success with. Firmware so far is also great, thanks for the QoL updates. I’m having an issue on the print resume feature though. To replicate:

    1) pause print
    2) power down (& leave for a bit)
    3) power back up and resume

    The menu correctly shows the “resume print” and allows me to select it. Print head will home on X&Y, heat the bed and nozzle but when it resumes, the z-height is incorrect. I’m wondering if this corresponds to the z-height jog up when selecting “pause”? When resuming the print height is much too high.

    I’m currently testing with a regular pause/resume (with no loss of power) and will report back if that behaves differently.

    1. regular pause/resume with no power loss behaves as expected. Confirmed that latest firmware is installed for a 4.2.2 board.

  12. i really like this ui, but the rest of it just lets it down, i have a bl touch 3,1 genuine, and the first layer is always to high,its never at the 0.2 i set it too. if i manualy adjust the z azis while printing even just 0.01 it crashes into the bed. im sure the x and y offset is also wrong. this is driving me insane

    1. use v2.0.x.16, probe z offset meant for multiple mount, prevent some for crashing, u can adjust for accuracy m851.

  13. I am a still little stuck. I installed the Micro-Swiss Direct drive with their hot end. Using the BLTouch. My offset of the BLTouch is x-56.5 and y-23 from nozzle. I have now tried E3v2-2.0x.16-5×5. From Octoprint I did M851 x-56.5 y-23 and M206 x-5 y-10 and stored m500. Confirmed the settings with an M503. From control panel when I select level it is not covering the whole bed. It starts maybe 5mm from the front edge of the bed and probes 5 spots along the edge only about 3/4ths across the x axis and same for 3/4ths back on the y axis. When I use control panel to move x and y axis. The very corner of the bed sits about x=4 and Y=8. When I move x to 220 it is 17mm from edge of glass. When I move y to 220 it is about 17mm from the back edge.

    Question 1: How do I get it to run auto level on the entire bed. I tried the 3×3 also with similar results.
    Question 2: Should the xy edge of the bed be at x4 y8 after I auto home (Auto home x=161.5 Y128)

    1. wasn’t sure if M206 helps, but we set 220 as print size, so no matter how it will only probe 220×220, and bltouch based on mesh point, getting probe at edge won’t improve ur accuracy.

      1. It isn’t probing the entire 220×220 it is probing about 170×170 area.

  14. im on the 2.0.x.16 version 5×5 fast. I figured out how to correct “M851 X-45.00 Y-7.00” my probe with Creality metal rack. that’s ok, but the prints are never centered. I have the test print with the 5 plates and a skirt around it and the whole design has an offset of X 0.7mm to the left and 1.5mm to the right. how can I fix that?

    1. its the space to the border of the glas bed, sorry forgot to mention.

      so a 190×190 test print is measured with 7mm to the left border and 15mm to the right border

      1. default bed size is 200 x 200

        1. I know and this is what I want to tell you:
          bed is 200×200
          print is 190×190
          and its not centered! any ideas why?

          and also, why having this unusable comments section as a support feature? why not use GitHub to be able to track and archive issues?

          1. u can post in github, just no one reading it. i just reply when i can.

  15. Thanks for posting this article. It really helps. Had all kinds of Z-Offset and print leveling issues with new BLTouch 3.1 and the Creality firmware.

    I messed up and copied the configs from Creality down and realized that that was wrong.
    Reverted and saw this branch is for Ender 3 V2. My bad,

    I was just going thru code and trying to figure out if the version I compiled was FAST or SLOW mode.

    Is that the #define BLTOUCH_HS_MODE in Configuration_adv.h

    The only odd thing I see is on version ESV2-2.0.x-16-3-Smith3D is the following:
    On 2nd sample of the probe it does not retract probe high enough on Z.
    This does not seem to affect sample but the BLTouch probe drops into the bed.
    The probe goes thru it’s normal color cycle and like I said it does not seem to affect it.

    Do I need to increase Z retract height between samples or after each sample ?

    Thanks again for the cool fixes.

  16. Hello Smith 3D team,

    I have downloaded Smith3D-E3V2-2.0.x.16-5×5-Fast-filamentsrunout-221220.bin for ender 3v2 which has For 4.2.2 Board (link is https://github.com/smith3d/Marlin/releases/download/2.0.x.16/Smith3D-E3V2-2.0.x.16-5×5-Fast-filamentsrunout-221220.bin)
    The first time I did it did not work. I reset to defaults from the Display menu, Still did not work.
    Later On, I flash my printer with BLtouch firmware of Creality for mobo Board 4.2.2 Ender-3 v2 Marlin2.0.1 BLtouchV1.1.1without adapter board firmware.rar
    Then I Again flashed with Smith3D-E3V2-2.0.x.16-5×5-Fast-filamentsrunout-221220.bin WOW it worked. I can see my Mechanical Filament sensor is working fine I have BL touch3.0 3rd party one. All are working fine..
    1) In Cura What will be the start code need to know This needs to be done when we have added Filament and BLtouch And firmware is my query …. I researched I added these lines – below G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
    M412 S1 ; filament run out on
    G28 ; Home all axes
    G29 ; auto bed leveling on

    2nd time asking and waiting for your response..

    After installing this firmware for BLtouch and Mechanical filament sensor. What changes should be made in the Start code in Cura printer settings for it? Please Advise

    Also, I would like you to know How to UI customizations display menu for Filament runout alert..

    Can you share your source code… with Config h and UI ?

    Thank you Regards Manuj

    1. source code is inside the github, where u downloaded the bin file.

      1. In Cura What will be the start code If we are using Filament and BLtouch that is my query.. I see above you mentioned start code for BL touch not about Filament.. Waiting for your reply

        1. filament sensor doesn’t need additional start code.

          1. When I googled I found these with some utubers

            M412 S1 ; filament run out on
            G28 ; Home all axes
            G29 ; auto bed leveling on

            its start code right? and what it means?

          2. yes. this is start code

  17. @smith3D i even can’t post on GitHub, there is no issue section.

    nevertheless, I fixed the “center print area” problem.
    i printed this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2280529 and measured the left and right box distance to my bed. Y was correct and centered, only X need adjustment.
    X to the left: 26mm and to the right 35mm. the difference is 9mm and this divided by 2 is 4.5mm
    Then I added “M206 X-4.5” with prontoface and now I have centered print area.

    is it correct, that the 5×5 probe are is also not “centered”?

    1. after I installed a BLTouch Kit from creality directly: https://www.creality3dofficial.com/products/creality-bl-touch?variant=31268470161481 for my Ender 3 v2

      for this I had also to overwrite the probe offset with “M851 X-45.00 Y-7.00”

    2. i just opened an issue

      1. you did, strange. now its working. ok will post my findings there.

  18. a nice feature idea for your firmware: after every finish of a print, the printer is waiting for ~10-15 minutes and if no other print is started, the printer is driving to the X axes Stopper and is hitting the X axis 5 times in sequence within a fixed time period. with this maybe strange behavior the complete printer knows to shutdown by itself 🙂

    good for prints into the night

  19. Hello Smith3D team

    Is there a version of Smith3D for a Ender 3 V1 ?
    My printer is a V1 with a 4.2.7 mainboard and Creality BL Touch 3.1 using a pin 27 adapter.
    Any info would be appreciated

  20. Hello Smith3D,

    you are my hero today! Really thank you very much at the point!
    I just equipped my Ender 3V2 with 3D touch and filament sensor. I tried to customize the Marlin firmware myself. Unfortunately it didn’t work at all. Your firmware (Smith3D-E3V2-2.0.x.16-5×5-Fast-filamentsrunout-221220) runs just great!
    Also the optical adjustments and the extended menu are great!

    Could you upload the sourcecode for this firmware? That would help me a lot to understand where I made mistakes. If you don’t want to do that I can understand that.

    Cheers, Luke

    1. check our FAQ, source code is inside the github

      1. Thx for the feedback.
        I checked the Source code (zip). But it seems to differ from the compiled version. So I can not compare those.
        Also my Probe Offset needs to be changed and complied afterwards.

        1. no need recompile. just use M851 marlin to configure it will do.

  21. Why did you reverse the runout sensor in 2.0.x16?

    1. the one i’m using is working if inverted. are you able to use it? If not I may have to compile another version.

      1. No, the one I’m using did work in 2.0.x14 but sinds it is inverted in 2.0.x16 I can’t use it.
        If I check the end stop status via M119 I see it is the opposit in 2.0.x16 compaired with 2.0.x14.

        If you can compile another version it would be great. Thanks in advance.

  22. Hello, I have just reinstalled the new 4×4 version is noted that in the Z-tools setting the Z setting is less precise by 0.10 instead of 0.01 which forces to go back to the z offset setting which is really not practical by contribution to the previous version.

    1. may i ask which 4×4 version you are using?

      1. I used the Smith3D-E3V2-2.0.x.9-4×4 version, for the 3X3 version it’s the same thing, in the Z-offset tool the setting of 0.10 you have to go back to Z-offset to be able to adjust from 0.01 a so on. it works but a lot of manipulation has to be done.

  23. Hey folks,

    I have a problem with the verion:
    For 4.2.2 Filament Sensor 5×5 (High Speed)

    Without the use of the sensor it works fine.
    For 4.2.2 5×5 (High Speed)

    So how do I connect my sensor (Very simple switch) to my v.4.2.2 board?
    So which pins on the PCB?
    And then which pin from the switch? Signal HIGH when filament runout? Or inverted?

    Thank you very much

    1. tested using standard filament runout, it working, i think default is HIGH.

      1. GREAT!
        Which of the 3 pins I have to use?
        There is V G S

        I guess:
        V = Voltage
        G = Ground
        S = Signal

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