Firmware & Guides

Ender 3 V2 BLTouch Firmware Installation Guide by Smith3D [Updated –13 November 2022]

Ender 3 v2 bltouch firmware installation guide by smith3d.com [updated –13 november 2022]
01
Aug
Contents hide
1 BLTouch Installation
2 BLTouch Mount
3 Firmware
4 Some UI customizations the community has added
5 Some other features were offered compared to Stock firmware
6 And remember to add “M420 S1” in Cura!
7 You can also add G29 for Bed Leveling before every prints
8 Nozzle Crashing Into Bed?
9 Steps to produce a good leveling
10 What if you are not getting an accurate Z Offset from the Tool? (Live Adjust Z Offset)
11 FAQ
11.1 Z-axis won’t budge
11.2 Black Screen of Death after flashed
11.3 Bltouch probe not centered / change probe offset
11.4 Manual Leveled & still printing in mid air or nozzle hitting the bed
11.5 Sometimes Probe doesn’t finish during leveling
11.6 Setting is not saved
11.7 OctoPrint Settings
11.8 Power Lose Recovery doesn’t work
11.9 Motor making noises and freeze during print.
11.10 Sometimes UI/ print progress bar does not reflect to the latest
11.11 Can I use 3DTouch or BLTouch older than v3.1?
11.12 Where can I get the source code? How to compile?
11.13 How to donate?
11.14 What happens If I don’t want a BLTouch anymore?
12 3D Printer Repair Service by Smith3D

BLTouch Installation

Ender 3 v2 bltouch firmware installation guide by smith3d.com [updated –13 november 2022]
Ender 3 v2 bltouch firmware installation guide by smith3d.com [updated –13 november 2022]
If you are using a different extension wire, please pay attention to the wire colors above.

BLTouch Mount

BLTouch Mount for Ender3 V2 – Link here (Use the two screws provided by BLTouch to screw it in.)

Firmware

Download Marlin Firmware V2.0.1 – Jyer Builds
Download Marlin Firmware 20221002 – Professional Firmware Builds

* Last Update from Jyers has been 1 year ago, Professional Firmware has more features but setup guide maybe different.

The very first thing you should to is go into Control > Advanced and adjust Probe Offset X to -42 & Probe Y Offset -10 (Printed Mount). and Control > Store Setting.

If you are using Creality official BL-Touch set, you have to set it to Probe X Offset -44 & Probe Y Offset -6.

MountProbe X OffsetProbe Y Offset
Custom Mount V3-42-10
Creality Official Mount-44-6

Video Guide by CHEP : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TroPjdkSEOY (Video guide doesn’t include manual leveling, do make sure you do manual bed leveling after adjust the z offset)

Unless your system is well tuned, please use the firmware above instead of high speed. Slow Probe & 5 x 5, which is great for first time tuning.

[8th April] As for Smith3D firmware, we have depreciated our firmware & move on to Jyer firmware as it offer much better features & functionality.

For BTT Filament Sensor & Standard Filament sensor, do enable them
inside Control > Advanced > Filament Sensor/Runout Distance

If you have never change your motherboard, it’s 4.2.2 by default

For 4.2.2 5×5 (High Speed) – download here
For 4.2.7 Board 5×5 (High Speed) – download here
For more info regarding this release
For people who’s suffering random probe fails, please refer to the FAQ below for z switch port firmware.

If flashed & auto leveling doesn’t work, please reset configuration (Control > Restore Default) or try to flash again with different filename. If you are getting Black screen, do format your MicroSD Card to FAT32 and rename the firmware & try again.

Older Build (V1.3.5b)

If you are facing issue on newer builds, you may try the older build

Download Marlin Firmware V1.2.2 – Jyers

What’s BL Touch High Speed Mode?

  • The high speed mode probes multiple points without stowing the needle, making it much much faster. But also prone to crashes if your bed is severely slanted. Please make good use of Manual leveling before you try this.

For Ender 3 V2 no bootloader installation is required. Copy the firmware into your SD card and then slot it in, the printer will begin flashing once you reboot it. Do remember that you need a different filename each time you flash a new firmware eg. firmware1.1bin > firmware1.2bin, else the system will ignore it.

For user who would prefer official firmware from Creality, you may check this guide here

Some UI customizations the community has added

Ender 3 v2 bltouch firmware installation guide by smith3d.com [updated –13 november 2022]
For Manual Leveling, please refer to CHEP guide https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EfWVUJjBdA

Some other features were offered compared to Stock firmware

  • Turn on and off display during printing
  • PID Autotune Menu
  • Change Filament menu
  • Adjust probe offset, filament sensor in the menu
  • __h__m Time Format Setting

And remember to add “M420 S1” in Cura!

Ender 3 v2 bltouch firmware installation guide by smith3d.com [updated –13 november 2022]
VERY IMPORTANT Add M420 S1; after the G28 in your start G-code in the starting G-code of your cura profile. To enable leveling on every prints. As the current marlin for Ender 3 V2 is unable to make “leveling enabled” persistent after reboot. M420 S1; Enable ABL (If you are getting error for Fade Height) This line of code always appear in other printer profile such as CR10SProV2/Ender5Plus where there is BLTouch built in.

You can also add G29 for Bed Leveling before every prints

Instead of adding the M420 S1 command above. You can replace it with G29 (Place it after G28). G29 basically starts a new round of auto bed leveling , good for users who would prefer a fresh bed leveling before every prints.

Nozzle Crashing Into Bed?

Ender 3 v2 bltouch firmware installation guide by smith3d.com [updated –13 november 2022]

Steps to produce a good leveling

  • Once you setup the Probe Offset X & Probe Offset Y, Store Setting and go to Prepare > Auto Home. Make sure your probe is directly at the center of the bed.
Ender 3 v2 bltouch firmware installation guide by smith3d.com [updated –13 november 2022]
Picture by CHEP
  • Start with Manual leveling to make sure the bed is leveled as much as you can, by manually adjusting bed spring. This is to reduce the amount of Z compensation ABL will need to apply when printing. Please refer to CHEP’s guide for how you can level your bed with a piece of paper. The firmware has included the buttons needed for printer to go to all 4 corners + center so you don’t have to do it via a gcode print file.
  • After the bed is leveled, get a good Z-offset by using the Prepare > Z-Offset. Remember to pre-heat your nozzle while using this as any remaining material stuck on nozzle tip might interfere the result while gauging with A4 paper. This tool will Auto home and then move Z to 0 to show actual Z offset. Prepare a paper to put between nozzle and bed, then try sliding it in and out, Microstep Up/Down & adjust Z offset until you feel a little friction between paper and nozzle. Use Home Z-Axis to double confirm if the z offset is the right one.
Ender 3 v2 bltouch firmware installation guide by smith3d.com [updated –13 november 2022]
Picture by CHEP
  • Once you got your Z offset, go to main menu and press “Leveling”. It will probe 5×5 points and save the mesh to your printer.
  • Done and start printing!
  • Again, it’s very important to heat up nozzle to 180-200 while using Z-offset (if there is PLA in nozzle) Else the Z-offset will vary a lot depending on the leftover material stuck on nozzle tip.

What if you are not getting an accurate Z Offset from the Tool? (Live Adjust Z Offset)

Sometimes moving the Z axis up and down bit by bit might cause a little slippages, which makes the Z-Offset gauging with A4 paper inaccurate.

Ender 3 v2 bltouch firmware installation guide by smith3d.com [updated –13 november 2022]
Picture by CHEP

If you want a better gauging result. We recommend user to adjust Z Offset via Tune during printing

FAQ

Z-axis won’t budge

Pay attention to the wiring color, some wires are inverted. If you are using 3rd party wiring, most probably the last two orange and yellow are inverted. You have to manually revert it back using a tweezer.

Black Screen of Death after flashed

Please follow this reddit link for full guide on how to do a proper flash
In summary
– Use newly formated sd card, with only bin file
– Rename bin file
– Unplug & reconnect power cord

Bltouch probe not centered / change probe offset

adjust Control > Advanced > Probe Offset X & Probe Offset Y

Manual Leveled & still printing in mid air or nozzle hitting the bed

Use slow probe 5×5 firmware to see if the situation is improving, if not check if your M420/G29 is added inside the start of gcode. Use either G29 or M420. Remember to save setting after leveled.

Sometimes Probe doesn’t finish during leveling

Solution 1:
Some users has issue with the bltouch port. the trigger signal or ground is not attached properly. Connect the two pin to the z switch stop & flash the firmware below.

Ender 3 v2 bltouch firmware installation guide by smith3d.com [updated –13 november 2022]

Download 2.0.x.17 ZSwitchStop 5×5 Fast Smith3d Marlin Firmware

Solution 2:
Try connect via Pronterface and check what’s the error code returned.

Summary (this reddit link explained in detail)
– Make sure bed not totally out of level, probe may out of reach or nozzle hit the bed first
– Check if your bed is badly warped
– Check if your bltouch pin is bent
– Check the XY axis wheel tension
– Check the Z axis for binding

Solution 3:
There is a resistor fix for this, you can solder a resistor and use the bltouch port.

Ender 3 v2 bltouch firmware installation guide by smith3d.com [updated –13 november 2022]

Setting is not saved

Remember to click “Control > Store Setting” everytime you setup completed. Check if eeprom is deleted in SD Card.

OctoPrint Settings

OctoPrint Settings by Jyers

Power Lose Recovery doesn’t work

Power Lose Recovery only works when it reached certain layer. check your SD card if there is a PLR file exist. PLR determine if to display the Resume Printing message.

Motor making noises and freeze during print.

This will happen if you just flashed the firmware & does not reset the configuration. Just turn off and on your printer will do, restore default setting. Another possible issue is the dupont connectors on the motherboard loosen, do hot glue the connectors in place or upgrade it to 5 pin JST connector.

Sometimes UI/ print progress bar does not reflect to the latest

Known marlin bug. Restart, press back, will do.

Can I use 3DTouch or BLTouch older than v3.1?

May not compatible, this firmware is optimized for BLTouch v3.1.

Where can I get the source code? How to compile?

Github Repository is here.

If you are having issue compiling your own marlin, remember to set default_envs = STM32F103RET6_creality in platform.ini

How to donate?

Please donate to Marlin Firmware & https://www.paypal.com/paypalme/jyers. Without them, there will be no great firmware for Ender 3 V2

What happens If I don’t want a BLTouch anymore?

You may revert your firmware to the official non-BLTouch firmware downloadable via this link – https://www.creality.com/pages/download-ender-3-v2

3D Printer Repair Service by Smith3D

If you are around Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia and would prefer an expert to service your Creality 3D Printer, check out our repair 3D printer service.

Smith3D

1,297 thoughts on “Ender 3 V2 BLTouch Firmware Installation Guide by Smith3D [Updated –13 November 2022]”

  1. Kevin says:

    Can anyone help me compile the 4×4 high speed mode firmware along with linear advance enabled? I managed to enable linear advance but the z offset tool disappears. Thank you.

    Reply
  2. Abdul says:

    What’s X, Y (Probe to Nozzle) offsets have you considered in the configuration? I used your version of firmware my Ender 3 v2 with ANTClabs BLTouch v3.1. The probing was happening, but during printing (Z) compensation wasn’t happening. I added the “M420 S1 Z2 ” after G8. Anyway, I compiled a version following instructions in the following video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4QL9BJd3oQ0, and added G9 after G8, and it works now. I measured the X, and Y offsets physically. To calculate Z offset (without a good tool like yours Z offset tool, and without pronterface on my MacOS), I set z-offset in prepare > z-offset, auto-home, send “g1 f60 z0” gcode from octoprint/serial terminal (repeat the process) until nozzle was at right height (paper test — to feel the friction between paper and the nozzle).

    I don’t want probing to happen before every printing, so I should try M420 S1 Z2 with my compiled version. Similarly, I will try G9 in your firmware version and confirming my finding if BLTouch works for me.

    Thank you for this article, and all details. It helps so many.

    Regards,

    Reply
  3. Paul says:

    Having an issue. My “Print” screen is displaying all filenames in Chinese characters, even though the selected language is English. Have tried switching languages and then back to English, but still only Chinese on the Print menu. Any fix?

    Reply
  4. Juan Carlos Pereira says:

    I was wondering if I could use this firmware in my stock Ender 3 v2 machine without BL-touch?. Can I just not to use auto leveling menu?. I am interested to have the rest of improments like improved UI, Runout filament sensor, Z-offset and AUX levelling.. Thanks in advance for your reply.

    Reply
  5. Alex Barbulescu says:

    I’m not familiar with coding this.
    But why there’s not an option to switch on/off fast speed probing and probing grid 3×3,4×4,5×5 from menu? That’ll be easier than having to flash the firmware.
    I don’t know how hard that can be to implement or if it’s possible, but would be nice to have.

    Reply
  6. Paolo says:

    Hi.
    Today I installed BLTouch on my Ender3 V2 using both mount support and spacer but I encounter some problems.
    The first is that last firmware 2.0.9 has not been flashed: I inserted SD card only with that file and when I switched on printer, display remained black. After I while I switched off, replaced with 2.0.8 file and this time operation worked fine.
    At start BLTouch moves two times down and up then pin (I think as autotest procedure at startup), then it stays on up position (retracted).
    The second problem I had is the Z offset procedure: I leveled manually the bed, then I selected the Z-offset tool and the extruder goes down, but when the Z-switch is closed, it continues to go down, hitting the plate. I tried to change the Z-offset setting it to 2 mm but same behaviour occurred. The same disconnetting the cable of the Z-switch. What am I doing wrong? In all these tests the pin of BLTouch remained up as after the initial test.

    I will really appreciate your replies and suggestion on how to solve occurred problems.

    Thanks in advance, best regards.

    Reply
      • Paolo says:

        Thanks for your reply.
        I used an extension cable with same color combination as original, so wiring should be correct. I will check again cable insertion because first time I inserted it BLTouch didn’t switch on at all. Unfortunately the multicolor cable (I suppose the display one) above connector partially covers it (the situation is bit different from images in your page).
        But in the Z-offset operation which should be the behaviour? The pin should be down to be able to feel the plate when the nozzle is going down, to substitute the Z-switch check?

        What about the problem of firmware upgrade with the 2.0.9? Any suggestion.

        Thanks again very much for your precious work.

        Best regards.

        Reply
        • Smith3D says:

          pin should deploy to feel the plate. If wiring is correct, try to unplug the z-switch plug & reset default config. So far users who are facing the similar issues were due to incorrect wire sequence or wire loosen.

          Reply
          • Paolo says:

            Good news.
            Everything is OK.
            I updated as expected the firmware at version 2.0.9 (I don’t know why previous tries failed), but I unzipped again the bin file on empty SD card without using previous file.
            Then I checked connections of extension cable into printer card and I found that they were loosen (metal connector of white cable seemed in moved position, too), and after some retries finally I got BLTouch perfectly working.

            Wonderful the Z-offset tool: it works like a charm, you made a great job.
            Then I tried the bed level function with 5×5 with success.

            Thanks again for your work and for your precious support.
            Best regards.

  7. John says:

    Do you have the latest V2.0.X.9 firmware with 3×3 point leveling instead, as a .bin file?
    Since 5×5 takes way too long to do before every print.

    Also, the V2.0.X.9 config file, is it the high speed or slow speed config?

    Reply
      • John says:

        Thanks for the info. So do i only need to edit the Configuration.h/configuration_adv.h files, and not touch any other files at all in Marlin?
        So i just download the latest Marlin firmware and replace the two config files for yours?

        Reply
          • John says:

            Yes but i dont want high speed, i want 3×3 slow speed, so im trying to compile myself, but Visual studio throws an error saying:

            Marlin/src/pins/pins.h:732: [high:error] #error Unknown MOTHERBOARD value set in Configuration.h

            Apparently, the pre written motherboard name “Motherboard Creality V4” is not a valid motherboard name. It tells me to choose a board from “boards.h”.
            So which board name should i use as motherboard name? Thanks.

    • SilantStrike says:

      That is really not necessary, you can update esteps and save to the eeprom using a usb interface or from the lcd menu directly.

      Reply
      • David Calice says:

        When changing in the printer menu, the setting returns to 93 and after that it is impossible to go beyond 116 in the menu.
        Not having a laptop. I have to move the printer to connect it to the stationary computer to use the USB interface.

        Reply
    • Smith3D says:

      We don’t have a filament runout sensor therefore we don’t know if it’s working, but there is a user stated adding m412 in the custom start code section may enable it. You may try it and let us know 🙂

      Reply
  10. Brakk says:

    Hi,

    First of all, thanks for your awesome work and sharing it with everyone. Your firmware build is awesome and works flawlessly on my Ender 3 V2. I do have one question: if I compile the firmware manually using your configuration.h and configuration_adv.h files (I tried all versions from V2.0.X.7 to V2.0.X.9, everything works except when changing the “Z-Offset” value on the screen, the nozzle doesn’t move. This works fine when using your compiled firmware but not on mine. Is there a setting I’m missing? Thanks.

    Brakk

    Reply
  11. HVO says:

    Thank you for the great firmware!
    I recently installed the 2.0.X.9 firmware using your guide and everything went smooth.
    However, I found a small glitch: if you go to Control > Info, then click on Back, the text “Temperature” disappears (only the icon is shown). If you go to the main screen and enter the menu again, the text reappears.
    Even if it still works great, I think you might want to correct that.

    Reply
  12. SilantStrike says:

    Hi there, thank you for maintaining this firmware, still looking forward to the release of the dwin changes, as there are other menu items that I would like to add to my printer (like change filament)

    I’ve been using 2.0.x.9 (3×3 slowprobe) and things have been working well. I have the microswiss hotend and a BL Touch, with the stock fan shroud and BLTouch mount above in this guide. I am not using the Microswiss firmware version, since I assume those offsets would be for a non-stock mount.

    Reply
  13. ScottL says:

    I got https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07ZCZP15F that one specifically before i saw the faq message about the incompatibility… figured id give it a go anyways where i had it and was pleasantly surprised.

    I had some issues at first but not at all related to the 3d touch.. I didn’t have it perpendicular to the build surface but once i realized that it worked perfectly!

    Even the extension cable / wire colors were all the same.. other then they used green instead of brown. Maybe this is a newer version? It was bought very recently.

    I can confirm though, 1 meter is just a little to short to wire it up nice! You can make it work but it wouldn’t run through the cable chains i have. Ordered a 1.5m extension that hasn’t got here yet for it.

    Reply
  14. ScottL says:

    It says in the FAQ that the 3D touch isn’t compatible but i just wanted to post my experience and say it in fact seems to work just fine (at least for me).

    Your millage of course may very but ive successful got it to work with the 2.0.x.9 firmware following the instructions on this page.

    Figured id share my success.
    Thanks for the great firmware!

    Reply
  15. Cristian Hamie says:

    Hi, thanks for the update.
    Bugs i found, Im gonna put them as actual examples:

    I start printing “gnome.gcode” it prints for half an hour. I try moving the knob, but it doesnt move on the screen. I click on the nob, and then it lets me move the cursor and click in pause.

    While prining, going to the menu option TUNE and tying to go back makes the printer go to the MAIN MENU, the whole printer progress bar is gone

    I start printing “gnome.gcode” it prints for half an hour, it doesn’t stick to the bed so i click in STOP. Scrap the surface of the bed and try to start “gnome.gcode” again.
    The printer displays the progress barr at 40% as if it was the previous print and not a new one. It still prints but data shown is way off.

    I start printing “gnome.gcode” it prints for half an hour, it doesn’t stick to the bed so i click in STOP. Scrap the surface of the bed and REMOVE the SD card, go to cura, slice “gnome.gcode” again and paste it on top of my older file with the same name.
    Put the SD back on the printer, try to start “gnome.gcode” again.
    The printer displays a message saying the previous print hasn’t completed (as if power was cut) and asks meif i would like to continue printing.It shouldn’t show this, i pressed stop.

    AUX tool: It only moves in 0.10 increments, so when using it it overrides the z-offset, even if its stored.

    Features:
    SD card list could be ordered by date, puting the newest file on top. That way you don’t have to search the list for your last gcode.

    Reply
  16. Weirder says:

    Hi,

    Just installed the firmware on my ender 3 v2. All good, but was stumped for a moment when testing…
    Turns out, whenever I move the z-axis from the screen on the ender, the extruder retracts at the same time, pulling back filament quiet a bit. No such issue when moving Z from octoprint, so not expecting a wiring issue. Leaving this here for anyone having the same issue.

    I can use octo as workaround, so no biggy for now.

    Reply
    • Rich M says:

      Having the same issue with moving the z-axis and the extruder retracts the filament instead. Sometimes to the point it spits it out the extruder and unwinds my spool! Only does this intermittently. Seems to only do it on the first attempt then works as normal. Reset settings but result was the same. Will try latest firmware.

      Reply
  17. DJohsoD says:

    Thanks for the great firmware.

    I have one issue.
    Power loss recovery while printing doesn’t work.

    I read the FAQ Power Lose Recovery but doesn’t work.

    There was a power outage about 20 minutes after I started printing.
    After the power was restored, I got a message to continue printing.
    When I press continue, there is no change in the screen.
    The screen is still at the Home screen.
    Printing does not continue.

    I switched back to the stock firmware and 15 minutes after printing started, I turned it off.
    After a moment, I turn it on.
    I press continue.
    The printing continues without problems.

    I turn the printer off again, using the Smith3D firmware, and 15 minutes after printing starts, I turn it off.
    A moment later, I turn the power on.
    I press continue.
    The screen is still at the Home screen.
    Printing does not continue.

    I operating in the wrong way?
    any special controls?

    I used this firmware.
    Smith3D-E3V2-2.0.x.9-5×5-SlowProbe.zip

    Thank you.

    Reply
          • DJohsoD says:

            Thanks for your reply,

            only thing on the SD Card is the PLR & gcode files.
            nothing else.
            It’s all on the root of the SD card.
            It’s the same with stock firmware.
            After update, I always print out the firmware bin file with it deleted too.
            By the way, my ender3v2 is 4.2.2

  18. Lachlan says:

    Running you latest 2.0.x.9 release and I’ve been really happy with it so far! I have however noticed a couple bugs/optimizations which may be worth looking at:
    – Bed leveling seems to be off center by a couple cm to the left.
    – Autohome doesn’t raise Z before moving, which can result in the nozzle being dragged through if the gantry has slipped down while the printer is idling/unpowered.
    – Max extruder transmission ratio through the screen is 186, if you have a geared extruder this needs to be able to be set higher (my bmg requires around 410.5).
    – After printing, the status bar says 0% complete instead of 100%.

    Mostly minor stuff but thought it was worth mentioning, thanks again for the great firmware, love the z-offset and aux level tools!

    Reply
  19. Issac S says:

    Thanks for your reply,

    1, Should I replace “G29” with “M420 S1 Z2” ?
    2. Will check and delete eeprom from SD Card.
    3. My bed doesn’t wobble.

    Thanks !

    Reply
  20. TTDARK says:

    After flashing the Firmware V2.0.X.9 Slow Version, the Z-Axis doesn’t move down, but only up when homing and starting leveling process.
    I can manually move it up and down via the screen controls so I know the motors and wires are still working.
    Can anyone replicate the issue? I tried clearing the configs and reflashing, there is no eeprom file on the sd card, only the .bin .

    Reply
      • TTDARK says:

        Thank you for replying!
        Yes I have got the cable with the red big connector. The wire order of the black 3-pin plug is wrong and I have rewired it and checked with my multimeter for connectivity. The connectors are glued on to the motherboard with hotglue. I will recheck if all of them are still in place and making contact.
        Just for reference. The head of the BLtouch moves up and down on power-on, but doesn’t lower down when homing.

        Reply
        • Smith3D says:

          Could you try with the following
          1. Reflash with another filename
          2. Delete eeprom from SD Card.
          2. Control > Reset Default

          One of the reason why it won’t move down is because it thought it’s still using endstop to determine the z axis, which could be cached.

          Reply
          • TTDARK says:

            I have solved the issue! It was not software related, but rather how the connectors are built and how bad of quality they are.

            Although the plugs were all the way pushed in, some of them weren’t making proper contact. I had to pinch the plug somewhat angled so the contacts properly touch each other.

            Pro tip for others: Don’t start any homing operation if the BLUE light of BLTouch is not on! ONLY RED light is bad! The extruder head is probably going to crash into the bed because the sensor is not in operation!

  21. Issac S says:

    I followed all the instructions multiple times, starting with AUX and than the Z-Offset tool. Double check again with AUX and still looks fine.

    When I print and it does 4×4 leveling (also tried the 5×5), the left side of the bed ends up too low and right side too high. The filament barely sticks the far left corner, and the near right corner, I am getting an extremely thin layer.

    What can I do to correct for this?

    Reply
      • Issac S says:

        Thanks for your reply,

        1, Should I replace “G29” with “M420 S1 Z2” ?
        2. Will check and delete eeprom from SD Card.
        3. My bed doesn’t wobble.

        Thanks !

        Reply
        • Smith3D says:

          I’ve uploaded a version with 5×5 + slow probe, can you try with that? quite possibly your glass is not even and 3×3 will not works well.
          You can use G29 if you felt the setting is not saved.

          Reply
  22. Irv Shapiro says:

    Once again I want to thank you for your contribution to the 3d printing community. I posted a very detailed video about installing a BLTouch with your firmware about 5 days ago. It is generating thousands of views and more importantly a large volume of comments you may find helpful. The video is located at:

    https://youtu.be/jO4PAWvWdH8

    All the best. Irv

    Reply
  23. SilantStrike says:

    Can we expect you to share your custom dwin changes in the near future? Your firmware is good, however there are some settings that I would like different on my firmware, and I dont want high speed probing.
    So I’m stuck using 2.0.x.7, and since you refuse to share your dwin changes, it forces users to stop using your firmware…

    Reply
    • Shaun says:

      wow, dude, by asking in this manner, you probably are not going to get what you want. I am sure you could probably de-compile the firmware yourself and figure it out on your own with an attitude like that.

      Reply
  24. Hank says:

    Thanks for all this good work. I am new to 3d printing and are ready to add the BL touch and the micro swiss direct drive extruder. I see there is a version of your firmware for that purpose has anyone else tried this firmware out yet or will I be the designated tester.

    Reply
    • AsKm76 says:

      I would love to have this also… I have tried for the last week to compile something but it always fails… I just want the proper bed and nozzle offsets to work..

      Reply
    • Drake says:

      +1, I have had numerous seemingly random problems with my E3v2 and it nearly always comes back to my Gcode file names being over 21 characters. A quick rename of the file solves the issue on the next print. If anyone is seeing their printer smash into stops or turning its feed rate >100~ all by itself after the leveling portion of the code runs, double check to make sure your file name saved on your SD card is 21 or less characters long.

      Reply
  26. Alain says:

    Additional Info about my last post.

    This appears in cure 4.7 and 4.6 – i tested the same models with the old cura slicers – no problemes there.

    So it might be a problem with cura and the firmware?!

    Reply
  27. Alain says:

    Thanks for your Effort.

    I got the strange issue that some – not all – slices from cura starting with wrong printspeed. Instead of the usual 100% i get 460% – sometimes over 900%. If i reset this to 100%, it gets reseted to this abnormal speed.

    Problems occur on 2.07 and 2.08

    Any tips here?

    Reply
  28. Sam Spencer says:

    Regarding the requirement for the bed to be mostly level for the software to be able to figure out how to remap and auto-level as part of the print – could the firmware use the BLTouch to help level the bed, and force that if the bed was outside a particular threshold – eg 2mm.
    Using the BLTouch, it could see what the delta from the mean is for each of the corners, and then provide guidance as to how much it needs to be adjusted. As the pitch of the threads for levelling screws should be known, it should be able to say “turn front left 1 turn clockwise, and back left 1/8 of a turn counter clockwise” which will bring the bed into nearly perfect alignment – the software can handle the rest. 1/8 of a turn is probably as much granularity as you could expect users to be able do manage. The thread is probably m3 – I can’t measure as I’m printing – but m3 has a pitch of 0.5mm, so 1/8 of a turn would give you 0.0625mm which is probably more than enough. Even at quarter turns, that’s probably enough.

    Reply
  29. Tom says:

    At first thanks for providing a working bltouch firmware! 😉
    So far it’s working great, just a few thoughts about improvment:

    – would it be possible to locate the outer probing points on the four edges exactly over the 4 bed screws? I think this way the results would be even better as most beds are only warped on the outer rim and now sometimes it overcompensates…
    (At the moment the probing field is also offset to the left (about 1-2cm nearer to the z-screw side) Can I somehow move it more to the center or make it more symmetrical to the middle of the x-axis without compiling new firmware by myself? Perhaps not possible because then the nozzle might have to move a litle outside the bed on the x-axis as the sensor is mounted on the left side of the fan housing…?)

    – Could you add a confirimation to bed leveling to prevent from accidental activating? (something like “Are your sure you want to level?”

    – In the z offset tool I’m only able to change by 0.1 increments. 0.01 seems not possible… Don’t know if it is inteded this way…

    Thanks in advance!
    Tom

    Reply
  30. Sam says:

    If there is a limit to how large a delta the software can accommodate in auto leveling, then I was wondering if the auto level should have a threshold beyond which it won’t level, but then prompt the user to manually level, and how much. For example, if it detects the delta between a corner and the center is 2mm or greater ( guessing a number) then it stops and prompts for the user to manually adjust. For the manual adjustment, it would show which corners need adjusting and by how many turns of the wheel – for example top left 3/4 of a turn clockwise. That should be calculable based on the delta and the pitch of the thread. This would mean that the software is only having to accommodate small deltas in level distance and so produce better prints, but also be proactive in helping the user get to that state.

    Reply

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