BLTouch Installation
BLTouch Mount
BLTouch Mount for Ender3 V2 – Link here (Use the two screws provided by BLTouch to screw it in.)
Firmware
* Last Update from Jyers has been 1 year ago, Professional Firmware has more features but setup guide maybe different.
The very first thing you should to is go into Control > Advanced and adjust Probe Offset X to -42 & Probe Y Offset -10 (Printed Mount). and Control > Store Setting.
If you are using Creality official BL-Touch set, you have to set it to Probe X Offset -44 & Probe Y Offset -6.
Mount | Probe X Offset | Probe Y Offset |
Custom Mount V3 | -42 | -10 |
Creality Official Mount | -44 | -6 |
Video Guide by CHEP : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TroPjdkSEOY (Video guide doesn’t include manual leveling, do make sure you do manual bed leveling after adjust the z offset)
Unless your system is well tuned, please use the firmware above instead of high speed. Slow Probe & 5 x 5, which is great for first time tuning.
[8th April] As for Smith3D firmware, we have depreciated our firmware & move on to Jyer firmware as it offer much better features & functionality.
For BTT Filament Sensor & Standard Filament sensor, do enable them
inside Control > Advanced > Filament Sensor/Runout Distance
If you have never change your motherboard, it’s 4.2.2 by default
For 4.2.2 5×5 (High Speed) – download here
For 4.2.7 Board 5×5 (High Speed) – download here
For more info regarding this release
For people who’s suffering random probe fails, please refer to the FAQ below for z switch port firmware.
If flashed & auto leveling doesn’t work, please reset configuration (Control > Restore Default) or try to flash again with different filename. If you are getting Black screen, do format your MicroSD Card to FAT32 and rename the firmware & try again.
Older Build (V1.3.5b)
If you are facing issue on newer builds, you may try the older build
What’s BL Touch High Speed Mode?
- The high speed mode probes multiple points without stowing the needle, making it much much faster. But also prone to crashes if your bed is severely slanted. Please make good use of Manual leveling before you try this.
For Ender 3 V2 no bootloader installation is required. Copy the firmware into your SD card and then slot it in, the printer will begin flashing once you reboot it. Do remember that you need a different filename each time you flash a new firmware eg. firmware1.1bin > firmware1.2bin, else the system will ignore it.
For user who would prefer official firmware from Creality, you may check this guide here
Some UI customizations the community has added
Some other features were offered compared to Stock firmware
- Turn on and off display during printing
- PID Autotune Menu
- Change Filament menu
- Adjust probe offset, filament sensor in the menu
- __h__m Time Format Setting
And remember to add “M420 S1” in Cura!
You can also add G29 for Bed Leveling before every prints
Instead of adding the M420 S1
command above. You can replace it with G29
(Place it after G28). G29
basically starts a new round of auto bed leveling , good for users who would prefer a fresh bed leveling before every prints.
Nozzle Crashing Into Bed?
Steps to produce a good leveling
- Once you setup the Probe Offset X & Probe Offset Y, Store Setting and go to Prepare > Auto Home. Make sure your probe is directly at the center of the bed.
- Start with Manual leveling to make sure the bed is leveled as much as you can, by manually adjusting bed spring. This is to reduce the amount of Z compensation ABL will need to apply when printing. Please refer to CHEP’s guide for how you can level your bed with a piece of paper. The firmware has included the buttons needed for printer to go to all 4 corners + center so you don’t have to do it via a gcode print file.
- After the bed is leveled, get a good Z-offset by using the Prepare > Z-Offset. Remember to pre-heat your nozzle while using this as any remaining material stuck on nozzle tip might interfere the result while gauging with A4 paper. This tool will Auto home and then move Z to 0 to show actual Z offset. Prepare a paper to put between nozzle and bed, then try sliding it in and out, Microstep Up/Down & adjust Z offset until you feel a little friction between paper and nozzle. Use Home Z-Axis to double confirm if the z offset is the right one.
- Once you got your Z offset, go to main menu and press “Leveling”. It will probe 5×5 points and save the mesh to your printer.
- Done and start printing!
- Again, it’s very important to heat up nozzle to 180-200 while using Z-offset (if there is PLA in nozzle) Else the Z-offset will vary a lot depending on the leftover material stuck on nozzle tip.
What if you are not getting an accurate Z Offset from the Tool? (Live Adjust Z Offset)
Sometimes moving the Z axis up and down bit by bit might cause a little slippages, which makes the Z-Offset gauging with A4 paper inaccurate.
If you want a better gauging result. We recommend user to adjust Z Offset via Tune during printing
FAQ
Z-axis won’t budge
Pay attention to the wiring color, some wires are inverted. If you are using 3rd party wiring, most probably the last two orange and yellow are inverted. You have to manually revert it back using a tweezer.
Black Screen of Death after flashed
Please follow this reddit link for full guide on how to do a proper flash
In summary
– Use newly formated sd card, with only bin file
– Rename bin file
– Unplug & reconnect power cord
Bltouch probe not centered / change probe offset
adjust Control > Advanced > Probe Offset X & Probe Offset Y
Manual Leveled & still printing in mid air or nozzle hitting the bed
Use slow probe 5×5 firmware to see if the situation is improving, if not check if your M420/G29 is added inside the start of gcode. Use either G29 or M420. Remember to save setting after leveled.
Sometimes Probe doesn’t finish during leveling
Solution 1:
Some users has issue with the bltouch port. the trigger signal or ground is not attached properly. Connect the two pin to the z switch stop & flash the firmware below.
Download 2.0.x.17 ZSwitchStop 5×5 Fast Smith3d Marlin Firmware
Solution 2:
Try connect via Pronterface and check what’s the error code returned.
Summary (this reddit link explained in detail)
– Make sure bed not totally out of level, probe may out of reach or nozzle hit the bed first
– Check if your bed is badly warped
– Check if your bltouch pin is bent
– Check the XY axis wheel tension
– Check the Z axis for binding
Solution 3:
There is a resistor fix for this, you can solder a resistor and use the bltouch port.
Setting is not saved
Remember to click “Control > Store Setting” everytime you setup completed. Check if eeprom is deleted in SD Card.
OctoPrint Settings
Power Lose Recovery doesn’t work
Power Lose Recovery only works when it reached certain layer. check your SD card if there is a PLR file exist. PLR determine if to display the Resume Printing message.
Motor making noises and freeze during print.
This will happen if you just flashed the firmware & does not reset the configuration. Just turn off and on your printer will do, restore default setting. Another possible issue is the dupont connectors on the motherboard loosen, do hot glue the connectors in place or upgrade it to 5 pin JST connector.
Sometimes UI/ print progress bar does not reflect to the latest
Known marlin bug. Restart, press back, will do.
Can I use 3DTouch or BLTouch older than v3.1?
May not compatible, this firmware is optimized for BLTouch v3.1.
Where can I get the source code? How to compile?
Github Repository is here.
If you are having issue compiling your own marlin, remember to set default_envs = STM32F103RET6_creality
in platform.ini
How to donate?
Please donate to Marlin Firmware & https://www.paypal.com/paypalme/jyers. Without them, there will be no great firmware for Ender 3 V2
What happens If I don’t want a BLTouch anymore?
You may revert your firmware to the official non-BLTouch firmware downloadable via this link – https://www.creality.com/pages/download-ender-3-v2
3D Printer Repair Service by Smith3D
If you are around Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia and would prefer an expert to service your Creality 3D Printer, check out our repair 3D printer service.
Has the knob skipping been fixed in the latest build? It was incredibly imprecise in build 2.0 and with confirmation removed its was also a pain to manually set things.
latest jyers might fixed have you tried it?
May I then presume that the downloadable firmware on this page is in fact Jyers?
Never mind that stupid question to which the answer is literally in the download link. No I have not yet tried the latest build but I’ll flash mine with it and see if it solves the issue.
I enabled filament runout sensor and every time I try to print it says filament runout, and I’m not sure if I need to adjust anything else
Hi! can I get the source code? I want to change a litle bit the appearance of the firmware.
answer me by mail please, fadel.yarden@gmail.com
could you ma the firmware also with a higher nozzle temp like 300c?
Is there an update version of the “Smith3D-E3V2-2.0.x.17-Fast-5×5-Zstop-180321.bin”? If not, could you please tell me or point me to what I need to change on the Jyers v1.3.4 source code to reflected those changes? Thank you for the awesome and helpful content
Will this work with the older BL-Touch V2? Thanks!
yes it will
The filament sensor gets stuck after giving an exhaustion error, it is necessary to restart the device and the device continues to write from a new height, not from where it left off.
The same problem
Hello,
I installed your firmware today on my Ender 3 v2, And I am extremely impressed. There are so many improvements compared to the stock firmware, not the least of which is the seamless integration with the BT-Touch. My only issue is that I have the I have the Micro Swiss direct drive extruder, and this requires the firmware to reverse the direction of extrusion.
Is there any wat to do this through your firmware? I do hope so, as it the best firmware I have found.
Thank you for your time.
you can either custom compile the firmware, or just invert the wire of the motor.
Hello, can is use this firmware with octoprint? The firmware works great with my BL so far!
Yes. can be used with the firmware.
can btt smart filament sensor run ender 3 v2 printer with smith 3d software? Can someone explain how it works? I couldn’t run. thank you so much…
Hi How does the mesh viewer work?
Warning: latest firmware versions has broken thermal pid, even after re-calibrate. “Thermal runaway” will you fear at random moment (and beepers at night are beatiful, even if you disable sound … )
PS its not printer issue, on previous versions all ok
Which version are you using, I’ve installed v1.3.4 and since then all having print problems. Seems like a burnt filament
I have a issue with z-offset can’t change the offset during printing, Marlin Firmware V1.3.3 – Jyer Builds
Hello. In the “mesh viewer” option we are presented with 25 measurements, with red and green colors, and numbers. Just out of curiosity, what is the interpretation of these data? What does Green mean? Red? How can I use them to improve my manual bed leveling? Thanks.
green means higher, red means lower, ur target is to make sure different not much
Hey man how about you fix the issue when you try to reheat the nozzle after pausing the print (to change filament) and then you get the error screen “Heating problem, restart required” (simplified), this has happened to many times and I have had too many failed prints because of this STUPID thing, fix it
Hey how bout you dont demand they fix it and you be grateful they even helped you out this much so fuckin apologize and ask nicely like an adult and not demand it like a fucking spoiled and entitled piece of shit!
Smith 3D,
I’m in the process of installing a new BTT smart filament sensor. I am unaware of where I should the cable that goes to the main board. There is a free connector that is located to the right of the nozzle wire port and to the left of the x axis limit switch port, I am using an Ender 3 v2 with a creality 4.2.2 board. Is that port the one I am supposed to use ? If not where should I plug in the male connector of the BTT sensor?
thank you for your time
you can reply to this comment or send an email to hermangaviria56@gmail.com
I’m having an error using M305 code, the terminal says: “Recv: echo:Unknown command: “M305″”, however I can see in the source code that the M305 gcode is properly declared at /marlin/src/gcode/config
Since I have an E3D volcano, had to update the thermistor parameters using the M305 code, but it’s not working. Hope you could fix it.
si vous voulez recompilé le firmware et qu’il fonctionne a 250000 bauds avec octoprint
ajoutez les ligne suivante
#define SERIAL_PORT 1
/**
* Select a secondary serial port on the board to use for communication with the host.
* Currently Ethernet (-2) is only supported on Teensy 4.1 boards.
* :[-2, -1, 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7]
*/
//#define SERIAL_PORT_2 2
/**
* This setting determines the communication speed of the printer.
*
* 250000 works in most cases, but you might try a lower speed if
* you commonly experience drop-outs during host printing.
* You may try up to 1000000 to speed up SD file transfer.
*
* :[2400, 9600, 19200, 38400, 57600, 115200, 250000, 500000, 1000000]
*/
#define BAUDRATE 250000
#define LCD_BAUDRATE 115200
Just a word of caution. Not sure why but I tried connecting my raspberry pi and octoprint and everytime I connect the raspberry pi the Printer does something wonky with my z offset without alarming to it. Caused some really nice grooves to be ground into my print bed.
Same as Daniel, after flashing E3V2-BLTouch-3×3-v4.2.7.bin, octoprint won’t connect.
Anything i missed here?
for bltouch mount on thingiverse which probe y does it take?
I just installed Jyers Firmware 1.3.2. I set the Probe Offset X to -42, The default Probe Offset Y is -7. Do I leave this at -7?
Unable to connect octopi to the Ender 3V2 with your Software.
Also the controll wheel misses some clicks while scrolling. sometimes i have to rotate the knob 3 or more times to get one step higher or lower.
mine says 230 on bed size how can i change it to 220
I really like the firmware, but since I have a E3D V6 nozzle I need to edit the config file.
Previously I found the correct configuration.h on github and I could simply edit 3 lines and compile.
Now there are multiple config files and I can’t seem to find the right one.
I need these modifications: 4.2.7. board, 0,8 degree steppers, E3D V6 hotend and BL touch with different offset.
Can you point me to the right FW for the 4.2.7. board with BLtouch?
Hello, I’v used your Ender 3v2 marling config for a CR10S5, using the same screen and board as the Ender 3v2.
I’v managed to change the print size, but it didn’t change the AUX leveling point. Where could I change thoose AUX leveling point ? (bottom left, bottom right, Top left, Top Right, Center)
im using VS code and was having the same problem I have an ender 3 v2 ender extender = 400×400 build area.
Go to configuration_adv.h under the Marlin tab –> go to lines 815–> this is the general area to adjust your probe points (front left, top left, bottom right top right etc.
#define TRAMMING_POINT_XY { { 40, 40 }, { 440, 40 }, { 440, 440 }, { 20, 440 } }
Define position names for probe points.
#define TRAMMING_POINT_NAME_1 “Front-Left”
#define TRAMMING_POINT_NAME_2 “Front-Right”
#define TRAMMING_POINT_NAME_3 “Back-Right”
#define TRAMMING_POINT_NAME_4 “Back-Left”
Does are not changing my points. Litteraly put random number to see if it change something. But nop…
I am hoping there is a Smith 3-D version of the firmware for the Ender extender kit 400 mm x 400mm build plate with BLtouch and a 4.2.7 board? Also if smith3d does not make one yourselfs if you have any idea where I can find firmware would these specifications in mind?
Thanks!
You can download the source code of the Marlin and compile it yourself.
I did it for a CR10 S5, manage to change the build size and using BL Touch too.
There is if you go to Marlin tab in visual studio code program –> go to configuration_adv.h—> lines 815+ have all the settings you need to change for probing points. I have the e3v2 extender kit and this seemed to have worked
This where i got mine
Hallo all gurus little problem I have following your guide and everything looks ok with leveling but I starts writing outside of the bed I have a ender 3 v2 I use your 3×3 4.2.2 firmware best regard Rikard
forget to say I have the microswiss direct drive everything is right the probe absolute center
You forget to do this.
The very first thing you should to is go into Control > Advanced and adjust Probe Offset X to -42 (Printed Mount). and Control > Store Setting.
would really really appreciate if there are more details about the UBL firmware. Can you use it if you have BLtouch or do you need another auto bed leveling sensor? If you could use with BLtouch, is it more accurate or what is the benefit of using it? how do you set it up ? what other things we need to be aware of when using UBL firmware instead of the normal BLtouch one.
thanks !!
Hey man, in the slow 5 x 5 mesh link it is not actually 5 x 5 but 3 x 3 mesh, can you fix it?
Yes I have same problem, leveling is not 5×5 stopping at 17th probe