BLTouch Installation
BLTouch Mount
BLTouch Mount for Ender3 V2 – Link here (Use the two screws provided by BLTouch to screw it in.)
Firmware
* Last Update from Jyers has been 1 year ago, Professional Firmware has more features but setup guide maybe different.
The very first thing you should to is go into Control > Advanced and adjust Probe Offset X to -42 & Probe Y Offset -10 (Printed Mount). and Control > Store Setting.
If you are using Creality official BL-Touch set, you have to set it to Probe X Offset -44 & Probe Y Offset -6.
Mount | Probe X Offset | Probe Y Offset |
Custom Mount V3 | -42 | -10 |
Creality Official Mount | -44 | -6 |
Video Guide by CHEP : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TroPjdkSEOY (Video guide doesn’t include manual leveling, do make sure you do manual bed leveling after adjust the z offset)
Unless your system is well tuned, please use the firmware above instead of high speed. Slow Probe & 5 x 5, which is great for first time tuning.
[8th April] As for Smith3D firmware, we have depreciated our firmware & move on to Jyer firmware as it offer much better features & functionality.
For BTT Filament Sensor & Standard Filament sensor, do enable them
inside Control > Advanced > Filament Sensor/Runout Distance
If you have never change your motherboard, it’s 4.2.2 by default
For 4.2.2 5×5 (High Speed) – download here
For 4.2.7 Board 5×5 (High Speed) – download here
For more info regarding this release
For people who’s suffering random probe fails, please refer to the FAQ below for z switch port firmware.
If flashed & auto leveling doesn’t work, please reset configuration (Control > Restore Default) or try to flash again with different filename. If you are getting Black screen, do format your MicroSD Card to FAT32 and rename the firmware & try again.
Older Build (V1.3.5b)
If you are facing issue on newer builds, you may try the older build
What’s BL Touch High Speed Mode?
- The high speed mode probes multiple points without stowing the needle, making it much much faster. But also prone to crashes if your bed is severely slanted. Please make good use of Manual leveling before you try this.
For Ender 3 V2 no bootloader installation is required. Copy the firmware into your SD card and then slot it in, the printer will begin flashing once you reboot it. Do remember that you need a different filename each time you flash a new firmware eg. firmware1.1bin > firmware1.2bin, else the system will ignore it.
For user who would prefer official firmware from Creality, you may check this guide here
Some UI customizations the community has added
Some other features were offered compared to Stock firmware
- Turn on and off display during printing
- PID Autotune Menu
- Change Filament menu
- Adjust probe offset, filament sensor in the menu
- __h__m Time Format Setting
And remember to add “M420 S1” in Cura!
You can also add G29 for Bed Leveling before every prints
Instead of adding the M420 S1
command above. You can replace it with G29
(Place it after G28). G29
basically starts a new round of auto bed leveling , good for users who would prefer a fresh bed leveling before every prints.
Nozzle Crashing Into Bed?
Steps to produce a good leveling
- Once you setup the Probe Offset X & Probe Offset Y, Store Setting and go to Prepare > Auto Home. Make sure your probe is directly at the center of the bed.
- Start with Manual leveling to make sure the bed is leveled as much as you can, by manually adjusting bed spring. This is to reduce the amount of Z compensation ABL will need to apply when printing. Please refer to CHEP’s guide for how you can level your bed with a piece of paper. The firmware has included the buttons needed for printer to go to all 4 corners + center so you don’t have to do it via a gcode print file.
- After the bed is leveled, get a good Z-offset by using the Prepare > Z-Offset. Remember to pre-heat your nozzle while using this as any remaining material stuck on nozzle tip might interfere the result while gauging with A4 paper. This tool will Auto home and then move Z to 0 to show actual Z offset. Prepare a paper to put between nozzle and bed, then try sliding it in and out, Microstep Up/Down & adjust Z offset until you feel a little friction between paper and nozzle. Use Home Z-Axis to double confirm if the z offset is the right one.
- Once you got your Z offset, go to main menu and press “Leveling”. It will probe 5×5 points and save the mesh to your printer.
- Done and start printing!
- Again, it’s very important to heat up nozzle to 180-200 while using Z-offset (if there is PLA in nozzle) Else the Z-offset will vary a lot depending on the leftover material stuck on nozzle tip.
What if you are not getting an accurate Z Offset from the Tool? (Live Adjust Z Offset)
Sometimes moving the Z axis up and down bit by bit might cause a little slippages, which makes the Z-Offset gauging with A4 paper inaccurate.
If you want a better gauging result. We recommend user to adjust Z Offset via Tune during printing
FAQ
Z-axis won’t budge
Pay attention to the wiring color, some wires are inverted. If you are using 3rd party wiring, most probably the last two orange and yellow are inverted. You have to manually revert it back using a tweezer.
Black Screen of Death after flashed
Please follow this reddit link for full guide on how to do a proper flash
In summary
– Use newly formated sd card, with only bin file
– Rename bin file
– Unplug & reconnect power cord
Bltouch probe not centered / change probe offset
adjust Control > Advanced > Probe Offset X & Probe Offset Y
Manual Leveled & still printing in mid air or nozzle hitting the bed
Use slow probe 5×5 firmware to see if the situation is improving, if not check if your M420/G29 is added inside the start of gcode. Use either G29 or M420. Remember to save setting after leveled.
Sometimes Probe doesn’t finish during leveling
Solution 1:
Some users has issue with the bltouch port. the trigger signal or ground is not attached properly. Connect the two pin to the z switch stop & flash the firmware below.
Download 2.0.x.17 ZSwitchStop 5×5 Fast Smith3d Marlin Firmware
Solution 2:
Try connect via Pronterface and check what’s the error code returned.
Summary (this reddit link explained in detail)
– Make sure bed not totally out of level, probe may out of reach or nozzle hit the bed first
– Check if your bed is badly warped
– Check if your bltouch pin is bent
– Check the XY axis wheel tension
– Check the Z axis for binding
Solution 3:
There is a resistor fix for this, you can solder a resistor and use the bltouch port.
Setting is not saved
Remember to click “Control > Store Setting” everytime you setup completed. Check if eeprom is deleted in SD Card.
OctoPrint Settings
Power Lose Recovery doesn’t work
Power Lose Recovery only works when it reached certain layer. check your SD card if there is a PLR file exist. PLR determine if to display the Resume Printing message.
Motor making noises and freeze during print.
This will happen if you just flashed the firmware & does not reset the configuration. Just turn off and on your printer will do, restore default setting. Another possible issue is the dupont connectors on the motherboard loosen, do hot glue the connectors in place or upgrade it to 5 pin JST connector.
Sometimes UI/ print progress bar does not reflect to the latest
Known marlin bug. Restart, press back, will do.
Can I use 3DTouch or BLTouch older than v3.1?
May not compatible, this firmware is optimized for BLTouch v3.1.
Where can I get the source code? How to compile?
Github Repository is here.
If you are having issue compiling your own marlin, remember to set default_envs = STM32F103RET6_creality
in platform.ini
How to donate?
Please donate to Marlin Firmware & https://www.paypal.com/paypalme/jyers. Without them, there will be no great firmware for Ender 3 V2
What happens If I don’t want a BLTouch anymore?
You may revert your firmware to the official non-BLTouch firmware downloadable via this link – https://www.creality.com/pages/download-ender-3-v2
3D Printer Repair Service by Smith3D
If you are around Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia and would prefer an expert to service your Creality 3D Printer, check out our repair 3D printer service.
Hello Smith 3D team,
I have downloaded on Jan15th Smith3D-E3V2-2.0.x.16-5×5-Fast-filamentsrunout-221220.bin for ender 3v2 which has For 4.2.2 Board (link is https://github.com/smith3d/Marlin/releases/download/2.0.x.16/Smith3D-E3V2-2.0.x.16-5×5-Fast-filamentsrunout-221220.bin)
It is working fine but yesterday when there was a power outage My 3D print failed to resume print. I did again sample test. It does not resume the Print. Please fix this version of firmware and send me a link.
For your information – I have ender3v2 (4.2.2 Board ) – Normal Switch Filament sensor and Generic touch ( I need firmware to cover all these)
Please help soon as possible.
Thank you
Regards
Manuj
it should resume unless your SD card is power resume file is corrupted
Thank you for your reply .. Please tell me How to fix this “unless your SD card is power resume file is corrupted” How can I fix the resume file on SD card?
Please share the link and the steps.
Thank you
Regards
Manuj
Please tell me How to fix this “unless your SD card is power resume file is corrupted” How can I fix the resume file on SD card?
Please share the link and the steps.
unfortunately, if your power off during sd writing, it may cause file corrupted. no way to fix it. buy a backup power source.
Hi there. I’ve been having a lot of comms issues with your latest firmware (not the alpha).
If I try the alpha. Will it improve communication with octoprint?
is there a version 5×5 bltouch filamentsensor on 4.2.7?
Thanks for the great firmware, the new alpha .17 seems to work very well as also the many previous releases, been using various versions since around August 2020.
Recently I was having an issue that I couldn’t get printing working well despite doing a fresh leveling, with nozzle almost diving into the bed on the other side of the bed, causing first layer to become thin or non-existent. I had transported the printer around in a car seat many times, and probably as a result, my printer slowly developed several issues:
1) x-gantry’s non-driven end was loose, tightening the screw on the backside next to the wheels helped
2) partly due to (1), the z-lead screw was binding – fresh, light oil lubrication helped too
3) finally, the bed was tilted more than 2mm from one side to another – looking from the octopi terminal, this was clear from the bed leveling results, but somehow it was not clear while doing AUX-leveling. (Maybe the gantry was also off by 2mm?) Tweaking the eccentric nuts of the rollers under the bed using the included spanner may have helped here as well, to eliminate any bed wobble.
Before: G29 result, bed tilted by 2mm, cold bed during leveling
Recv: Bilinear Leveling Grid:
Recv: 0 1 2 3 4
Recv: 0 -1.308 -0.745 -0.115 +0.482 +1.120
Recv: 1 -1.262 -0.720 -0.102 +0.495 +1.115
Recv: 2 -1.245 -0.720 -0.097 +0.487 +1.100
Recv: 3 -1.230 -0.700 -0.082 +0.505 +1.127
Recv: 4 -1.173 -0.650 -0.032 +0.553 +1.165
After: G29 result, bed better leveled, heated to +50°C (PLA) before leveling
Recv: 0 1 2 3 4
Recv: 0 +0.049 +0.022 +0.057 +0.052 +0.113
Recv: 1 +0.026 -0.007 +0.025 +0.013 +0.069
Recv: 2 +0.029 -0.018 -0.003 -0.026 +0.015
Recv: 3 +0.048 -0.008 -0.001 -0.026 +0.004
Recv: 4 +0.095 +0.022 +0.021 -0.017 +0.008
(As seen in the latter leveling, my printing bed does have a slight dip in the center — it doesn’t work well without BLtouch leveling correction, but with BLtouch and bed leveling mesh correction, first layer prints out perfectly.)
So I’ve been struggling getting my BLTouch to work on my Ender 3 v2 all day. I tried the stable version of the firmware and was having issues with the print not being level. I switched to the alpha and can print a full bed level test but I’m noticing that the BLTouch slowly blinks red when retracted and solid blue when extended. When I was trying the stable version I thought it was solid red retracted and solid blue extended. Does this mean it isn’t reading the data points?
Ender3 v2 4.2.7 Ana Kartta Hangi yazılım Gerekli Bltoucht var
Hi
Thanks for the very detailed instructions. I did everything exactly like that. In principle everything works, except that I can no longer read STL files. Neither with an SD card nor with a repeater server. What could be the reason?
I have an problem with bl touch. It was working perfectly and now with the 5 * 5 it just probe the first point. Light goes blue move and goes red as normal. Then moves up and stop. Nothing futher. I have re flashed check all plugs.
because it probe failed, restore default and try again.
V2.0.X.17 (Alpha) print loading time is slow while using, printer usage time is inaccurate, and inter-display errors are occurring. Display contents cannot be switched immediately
my posts keep disappearing, is there an issue with the website?
we have to do manual filter as there are many spam comments by bots.
Hello,
I just installed the firmware for my new BL Touch on an Ender 3 v2. The BL Touch is solid red. When I go into the Aux leveling menu, it starts the autohoming process. What is odd is that I get movement along the x and y axis, and on the z-axis, the printer only moves up, but not down. It just stops in the middle but is about 9 or so cm from the bed. Is this common? Anyone know how to fix?
Thanks in advance for the help.
Ryan
To add one more note, the options for “Z-offset tool”, “AUX Leveling”, and “Refuel” are all a lighter bluish grey type color, whereas all other menu options are white.
Hi Ryan, just did exactly the same mod yesterday, worked a treat, I had to change the wire positions in the three pin plug to match up with the sensor, so it ended up pin for pin when in the 5 way socket on the pcb, I hot melt glued the connectors in because they really dont fit well and the on board connector has shorter pins. Also i removed the connector from the z axis microswitch, the software i used was the one suggested on this site (slow)
Hope that helps.
Thanks for the feedback Chris. I did the wire swap previously so that should be good to go. Does your cable order look like the one recommended above?
I did Unplug the z-stop cable from the z-stop but not the pcb, so maybe that’s my issue. Will also try the glue trick.
Any chance we can get a 235×235 build plate version? or 230 to be safe?
Hello,
I’m trying to customize my ABL Matrix with “G29 P10”, but it onyl probes a matrix of 5×5.
I’m doing anthing wrong?
Thx a lot!
any idea?
HI
bit of a new guy to this 3d printing, I have succesfuly fitted the blt and software as per your recommendations. I am using the original slicer that cambe with the ender 3 v2, how do I insert the G28 code you mention, I cant find an option in its menu
thanks
change to cura slicer, it’s free and easy to use. i wasn’t sure about creality slicer.
great idea, but the dickhead who wrote the latest windows 10 version of cura didnt test it very well and it loads of people have found it does not run!
Thanks for the firmware! I love the aux leveling and Z offset menus.
I’ve been having trouble setting my Z offset, I set it rehome to verify and print and my offset is higher than what I set not sure what I’m doing wrong. Thanks in advance.
is it going up everytime? remove the z switch at the side. it’s blocking the bltouch
For 4.2.2 5×5 (High Speed)
For 4.2.2 Filament Sensor 5×5 (High Speed)
For 4.2.2 Filament Sensor Inverted 5×5 (High Speed)
For 4.2.2 BTT Smart Sensor 5×5 (High Speed)
For 4.2.7 Board 5×5 (High Speed)
If I use BL touch, I want a high-speed version
Which version do I need to install?
use teh high speed version. the very first one.
For 4.2.2 5×5 (High Speed) – download here
For 4.2.2 Filament Sensor 5×5
The difference between the above two version?
if you have a filament sensor, use the filament sensor edition.
I modded my Ender v2 with the Ender Extender kit which made my bed 400 x 400mm. I changed everything in the firmware correctly, but the AUX Leveling is still seeing the bed at 220 x 220mm. I can only manually the middle and front left area properly. How should I address this? I’ve looked everywhere in the firmware for the AUX Leveling option, but I can’t seem to locate it.
adjust the bed size will do.
Can you release a version of the firmware with a 15×15 bed leveling size. id like to get more points for visualizing my printer bed in octoprint
i to wish for this
Hi does the firmware for 4.2.2 board has the 235×235 biuld plate size?
It seems like the link to the file for the one with the BTT smart filament sensor is wrong. It is the same file for the regular sensor. Took me a while to figure why my sensor doesn’t work, and I had to get the right file from the github.
Do you have a link to the github link with BL touch and BTT Smart Filament sensor that’s working, Many thanks in advance
https://github.com/smith3d/Marlin/releases/download/2.0.x.16/Smith3D-E3V2-2.0.x.16-5×5-Fast-BTTSmartSensor-Inverted-Octopi-040221.bin
try this
I have an ender 3V2 and have to say your FW is far better than Creality. I currently have a BLT and octopi running my ZStop Switch as a filament detector. Already replaced every fan on the machine as well.
I currently am running x.16 with 4.2.2 5×5 (High Speed) but dislike the 220×220 bed size and want to push it to 235×235 with defined end limit boundries to maximize probing. As such, I want to start compiling my own FW. I figure this is a great chance to test the x.17 alpha build while modifying some additional parameters like a 7×7 or 9×9 grid. I have shimmed my bed to a 0.05 variance but suffer from the wonderful bowl shaped plate that came with the V2.
Looking at your updates you indicate that the Baud rate needs to be updated to 250000 but when i look at the source code files and config the baud rate is still set to 115200. Is this just as simple as updating within the single baud rate setting line and recompiling or am I missing something else?
Again, thanks for your help!
I realized I was in the wrong directory and have found the correct config files for .x.17.
My only question is where can I find the x.16. config files so that I can do a direct comparison. The FW is currently working great and I want to run a compare before I compile the new FW.
Thanks
https://github.com/smith3d/Marlin/blob/bugfix-2.0.x-Smith3D/Marlin/Configuration.h
https://github.com/smith3d/Marlin/blob/bugfix-2.0.x-Smith3D/Marlin/Configuration_adv.h
check here for the latest
Will alpha version work with microswiss hotend? Currently using E3 microswiss build on my v2 & I’m having BLTouch issues. Every time I complete or cancel a print, I have to cycle power or I get an M999 error and BLTouch is inoperable.
are u using together with octoprint? try the alpha version, the baud rate has changed to 250000, test if it’s still getting M999 again. It has done a few improvements toward octoprint.
Yes, octoprint keeps gibing me the error code and disconnecting. I will try the alpha version today, thanks!
I meant to say I have the microswiss direct drive/hotend combo. And yes, OctoPrint is running and gives this error. I will try out the alpha build, thanks.
Hi There,
I have been using your firmware (E3V2-2.0.x.12-5×5-SlowProbe) for a while now and its been working like a charm. I have recently upgraded to the Micro Swiss direct drive and have been struggling with the “X_MIN_POS” and “Y_MIN_POS” values. Can you please help me with the latest uncompiled firmware with everything already setup for 5×5-Slowprobe so that I can just customize my bed size values and compile the firmware.
Thanks in advance
Morne
currently doing alpha test, facebook chat with me with all the parameter you need. i will compile an alpha build for you.
hi. would you be able to compile the latest build with a fast 10 x10 touches? thanks
I would like that build too. Compiled my own with the offsets but like the features on your builds
when we update the firmware to we then have to re-calibrate esteps and everything else we did. or will it work fine with the new firmware just fine
no need to recalibrate the estep
is the alpha, the newest release from today?
And do i unplug the switch from the main board or from the switch…or does it not matter?
What are some of the differences between the alpha and the fast probe?
remove the z switch from the aluminum profile will do. try alpha, it’s an improved version
Last question:
G29 or m420
Ender5 has m420 in cura like you said, but that unit also auto levels before each print. On the e3v2, it won’t do that unless you use g29…but should you include the m420 after?
g29 alone is fine.
Do you need to keep the BIN file on the SD card? or can i remove it from the card after the firmware flash?
Just wanted to give an update….for the first time since installing my BL Touch, i finally got a perfect print thanks to this software. Nicely done and thank you!
Good morning,
Last week, i installed the old version. Did both the slow probe and the fast probe. The things i noticed were:
~Weird odor from nozzle heating. Not sure if there is runaway temp or not, i also cant for the life of me seem to get a level print.
~It goes through the probing process, but no matter how many times i adjust the Z offset, printing the same piece twice, will have two different results. I feel like it doesnt save the leveling. I tried using G29, the M420, Both, Each separately etc. Cant quite figure out what the printer likes best to produce a consistent result.
~Does not show “complete” when print is done.
Same issues with both the fast and slow probing.
I love the user interface and all the features that come with it…..
Unfortunately, I had to go and download the creality software. Which doesnt give me any weird smells, shows “complete” when a print is done. But….i get BLtouch errors when auto leveling intermittently, and it doesnt remember the Z offset. When i go to tune the Z-offset with the creality firmware, the system forgets where the true “0” is and then tries to run down even further thus contacting the bed. Also Creality software doesnt have aux leveling feature.
I really like your software….but i need to find a way to make it work for my machine. Creality software, i can manage to get a decent print, but lacks the support, features, and constant improvements that your software has…
Does this new update address any of the issues i experienced with the past version?
I have the 4.2.2 board (i believe, because thats the one that creality software works on my machine) and my BLtouch came with the ender3V2 bracket and one cable that was all direct plug in.
Thanks,
Kevin
you may try the new alpha version.
Is your z switch stop removed?
Assuming this was in response to my post,
No the Z stop switch is still connected. Its moved all the way down so it doesnt get utilized. What would the benefit of removing it be? and do i disconnect it at the main board or at the switch?
Is the alpha version new? It says its not well tested
Thanks,
Kevin
z switch maybe blocking, and u can try alpha version. was tested by a few users and so far it’s working. few things to test
1. ur bltouch maybe not working well, unscrew the pin there and rescrew again.
2. as for z offset, you may try use back the offset you set for creality. it maybe working. i suspect something related to the mesh setup.
Hi. is there any chance we can get it to probe a 10×10 for better bed acuracy? im struggling here with a 5×5 on my wide model as my glass is high in the middle. cheers
Hi there,
Does the 5×5 Slow Probe work with 4.2.7 board?
I have 4.2.2 in my V2 but have the layer shift issue after a few hours. Going to check vref tomorrow. Thinking to change board to the 7 if the vref doesn’t cure it.
Shame as it’s printing beautifully up to the layer shift with the 5×5 slow probe firmware.
check ur belt or anything. firmware won’t cause layer shift issue
So s_curve is implemented in your latest ver? Did LA get fixed as thats what im reading why its not working correctly.
thxs for your work
d
Your stepper drivers are overheating. Ask me how I know.
You can either prop open your mobo case or upgrade the fan to something more powerful.
scroll down to the beginning of the “firmware” section on this page where is lists all of the “High Speed” firmware downloads. There are five in the list. Right below the “High Speed 4.2.7 board” it talks about “for more information about this release”, click on “Release” and it will take you to the Smith3d GitHub page. Scroll down to their firmware downloads. The top two are for 4.2.7 boards and I can confirm the low speed firmware works for 4.2.7 board with Bl touch.