Firmware & Guides

Ender 3 V2 BLTouch Firmware Installation Guide by Smith3D [Updated –13 November 2022]

Ender 3 v2 bltouch firmware installation guide by smith3d.com [updated –13 november 2022]
01
Aug
Contents hide
1 BLTouch Installation
2 BLTouch Mount
3 Firmware
4 Some UI customizations the community has added
5 Some other features were offered compared to Stock firmware
6 And remember to add “M420 S1” in Cura!
7 You can also add G29 for Bed Leveling before every prints
8 Nozzle Crashing Into Bed?
9 Steps to produce a good leveling
10 What if you are not getting an accurate Z Offset from the Tool? (Live Adjust Z Offset)
11 FAQ
11.1 Z-axis won’t budge
11.2 Black Screen of Death after flashed
11.3 Bltouch probe not centered / change probe offset
11.4 Manual Leveled & still printing in mid air or nozzle hitting the bed
11.5 Sometimes Probe doesn’t finish during leveling
11.6 Setting is not saved
11.7 OctoPrint Settings
11.8 Power Lose Recovery doesn’t work
11.9 Motor making noises and freeze during print.
11.10 Sometimes UI/ print progress bar does not reflect to the latest
11.11 Can I use 3DTouch or BLTouch older than v3.1?
11.12 Where can I get the source code? How to compile?
11.13 How to donate?
11.14 What happens If I don’t want a BLTouch anymore?
12 3D Printer Repair Service by Smith3D

BLTouch Installation

Ender 3 v2 bltouch firmware installation guide by smith3d.com [updated –13 november 2022]
Ender 3 v2 bltouch firmware installation guide by smith3d.com [updated –13 november 2022]
If you are using a different extension wire, please pay attention to the wire colors above.

BLTouch Mount

BLTouch Mount for Ender3 V2 – Link here (Use the two screws provided by BLTouch to screw it in.)

Firmware

Download Marlin Firmware V2.0.1 – Jyer Builds
Download Marlin Firmware 20221002 – Professional Firmware Builds

* Last Update from Jyers has been 1 year ago, Professional Firmware has more features but setup guide maybe different.

The very first thing you should to is go into Control > Advanced and adjust Probe Offset X to -42 & Probe Y Offset -10 (Printed Mount). and Control > Store Setting.

If you are using Creality official BL-Touch set, you have to set it to Probe X Offset -44 & Probe Y Offset -6.

MountProbe X OffsetProbe Y Offset
Custom Mount V3-42-10
Creality Official Mount-44-6

Video Guide by CHEP : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TroPjdkSEOY (Video guide doesn’t include manual leveling, do make sure you do manual bed leveling after adjust the z offset)

Unless your system is well tuned, please use the firmware above instead of high speed. Slow Probe & 5 x 5, which is great for first time tuning.

[8th April] As for Smith3D firmware, we have depreciated our firmware & move on to Jyer firmware as it offer much better features & functionality.

For BTT Filament Sensor & Standard Filament sensor, do enable them
inside Control > Advanced > Filament Sensor/Runout Distance

If you have never change your motherboard, it’s 4.2.2 by default

For 4.2.2 5×5 (High Speed) – download here
For 4.2.7 Board 5×5 (High Speed) – download here
For more info regarding this release
For people who’s suffering random probe fails, please refer to the FAQ below for z switch port firmware.

If flashed & auto leveling doesn’t work, please reset configuration (Control > Restore Default) or try to flash again with different filename. If you are getting Black screen, do format your MicroSD Card to FAT32 and rename the firmware & try again.

Older Build (V1.3.5b)

If you are facing issue on newer builds, you may try the older build

Download Marlin Firmware V1.2.2 – Jyers

What’s BL Touch High Speed Mode?

  • The high speed mode probes multiple points without stowing the needle, making it much much faster. But also prone to crashes if your bed is severely slanted. Please make good use of Manual leveling before you try this.

For Ender 3 V2 no bootloader installation is required. Copy the firmware into your SD card and then slot it in, the printer will begin flashing once you reboot it. Do remember that you need a different filename each time you flash a new firmware eg. firmware1.1bin > firmware1.2bin, else the system will ignore it.

For user who would prefer official firmware from Creality, you may check this guide here

Some UI customizations the community has added

Ender 3 v2 bltouch firmware installation guide by smith3d.com [updated –13 november 2022]
For Manual Leveling, please refer to CHEP guide https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EfWVUJjBdA

Some other features were offered compared to Stock firmware

  • Turn on and off display during printing
  • PID Autotune Menu
  • Change Filament menu
  • Adjust probe offset, filament sensor in the menu
  • __h__m Time Format Setting

And remember to add “M420 S1” in Cura!

Ender 3 v2 bltouch firmware installation guide by smith3d.com [updated –13 november 2022]
VERY IMPORTANT Add M420 S1; after the G28 in your start G-code in the starting G-code of your cura profile. To enable leveling on every prints. As the current marlin for Ender 3 V2 is unable to make “leveling enabled” persistent after reboot. M420 S1; Enable ABL (If you are getting error for Fade Height) This line of code always appear in other printer profile such as CR10SProV2/Ender5Plus where there is BLTouch built in.

You can also add G29 for Bed Leveling before every prints

Instead of adding the M420 S1 command above. You can replace it with G29 (Place it after G28). G29 basically starts a new round of auto bed leveling , good for users who would prefer a fresh bed leveling before every prints.

Nozzle Crashing Into Bed?

Ender 3 v2 bltouch firmware installation guide by smith3d.com [updated –13 november 2022]

Steps to produce a good leveling

  • Once you setup the Probe Offset X & Probe Offset Y, Store Setting and go to Prepare > Auto Home. Make sure your probe is directly at the center of the bed.
Ender 3 v2 bltouch firmware installation guide by smith3d.com [updated –13 november 2022]
Picture by CHEP
  • Start with Manual leveling to make sure the bed is leveled as much as you can, by manually adjusting bed spring. This is to reduce the amount of Z compensation ABL will need to apply when printing. Please refer to CHEP’s guide for how you can level your bed with a piece of paper. The firmware has included the buttons needed for printer to go to all 4 corners + center so you don’t have to do it via a gcode print file.
  • After the bed is leveled, get a good Z-offset by using the Prepare > Z-Offset. Remember to pre-heat your nozzle while using this as any remaining material stuck on nozzle tip might interfere the result while gauging with A4 paper. This tool will Auto home and then move Z to 0 to show actual Z offset. Prepare a paper to put between nozzle and bed, then try sliding it in and out, Microstep Up/Down & adjust Z offset until you feel a little friction between paper and nozzle. Use Home Z-Axis to double confirm if the z offset is the right one.
Ender 3 v2 bltouch firmware installation guide by smith3d.com [updated –13 november 2022]
Picture by CHEP
  • Once you got your Z offset, go to main menu and press “Leveling”. It will probe 5×5 points and save the mesh to your printer.
  • Done and start printing!
  • Again, it’s very important to heat up nozzle to 180-200 while using Z-offset (if there is PLA in nozzle) Else the Z-offset will vary a lot depending on the leftover material stuck on nozzle tip.

What if you are not getting an accurate Z Offset from the Tool? (Live Adjust Z Offset)

Sometimes moving the Z axis up and down bit by bit might cause a little slippages, which makes the Z-Offset gauging with A4 paper inaccurate.

Ender 3 v2 bltouch firmware installation guide by smith3d.com [updated –13 november 2022]
Picture by CHEP

If you want a better gauging result. We recommend user to adjust Z Offset via Tune during printing

FAQ

Z-axis won’t budge

Pay attention to the wiring color, some wires are inverted. If you are using 3rd party wiring, most probably the last two orange and yellow are inverted. You have to manually revert it back using a tweezer.

Black Screen of Death after flashed

Please follow this reddit link for full guide on how to do a proper flash
In summary
– Use newly formated sd card, with only bin file
– Rename bin file
– Unplug & reconnect power cord

Bltouch probe not centered / change probe offset

adjust Control > Advanced > Probe Offset X & Probe Offset Y

Manual Leveled & still printing in mid air or nozzle hitting the bed

Use slow probe 5×5 firmware to see if the situation is improving, if not check if your M420/G29 is added inside the start of gcode. Use either G29 or M420. Remember to save setting after leveled.

Sometimes Probe doesn’t finish during leveling

Solution 1:
Some users has issue with the bltouch port. the trigger signal or ground is not attached properly. Connect the two pin to the z switch stop & flash the firmware below.

Ender 3 v2 bltouch firmware installation guide by smith3d.com [updated –13 november 2022]

Download 2.0.x.17 ZSwitchStop 5×5 Fast Smith3d Marlin Firmware

Solution 2:
Try connect via Pronterface and check what’s the error code returned.

Summary (this reddit link explained in detail)
– Make sure bed not totally out of level, probe may out of reach or nozzle hit the bed first
– Check if your bed is badly warped
– Check if your bltouch pin is bent
– Check the XY axis wheel tension
– Check the Z axis for binding

Solution 3:
There is a resistor fix for this, you can solder a resistor and use the bltouch port.

Ender 3 v2 bltouch firmware installation guide by smith3d.com [updated –13 november 2022]

Setting is not saved

Remember to click “Control > Store Setting” everytime you setup completed. Check if eeprom is deleted in SD Card.

OctoPrint Settings

OctoPrint Settings by Jyers

Power Lose Recovery doesn’t work

Power Lose Recovery only works when it reached certain layer. check your SD card if there is a PLR file exist. PLR determine if to display the Resume Printing message.

Motor making noises and freeze during print.

This will happen if you just flashed the firmware & does not reset the configuration. Just turn off and on your printer will do, restore default setting. Another possible issue is the dupont connectors on the motherboard loosen, do hot glue the connectors in place or upgrade it to 5 pin JST connector.

Sometimes UI/ print progress bar does not reflect to the latest

Known marlin bug. Restart, press back, will do.

Can I use 3DTouch or BLTouch older than v3.1?

May not compatible, this firmware is optimized for BLTouch v3.1.

Where can I get the source code? How to compile?

Github Repository is here.

If you are having issue compiling your own marlin, remember to set default_envs = STM32F103RET6_creality in platform.ini

How to donate?

Please donate to Marlin Firmware & https://www.paypal.com/paypalme/jyers. Without them, there will be no great firmware for Ender 3 V2

What happens If I don’t want a BLTouch anymore?

You may revert your firmware to the official non-BLTouch firmware downloadable via this link – https://www.creality.com/pages/download-ender-3-v2

3D Printer Repair Service by Smith3D

If you are around Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia and would prefer an expert to service your Creality 3D Printer, check out our repair 3D printer service.

Smith3D

1,297 thoughts on “Ender 3 V2 BLTouch Firmware Installation Guide by Smith3D [Updated –13 November 2022]”

  1. Dan says:

    I found the Language setting – first time through the menu option was not responsive. After shutting off the printer for a few minutes, then turning it back on and going through the menu items again, this time it worked.

    Thanks!

    Reply
  2. Dan says:

    Just downloaded and applied the V2.0.X.6B 5×5 file – seemed to flash ok. Used the same SD card I’ve used for all my work so far.

    The language on the display isn’t in english anymore, and I can’t figure out how to get it back. Have methodically tried each of the menu options, but didn’t see where I could select a language.

    Reply
  3. Harry Bowker says:

    Hi,
    Awesome firmware however I wish to try out a new cooler setup as I find the existing one does not help much at all. this will change the probe offset. do you think if requested you can change the offset or publish the source code for the firmware?

    Many thanks,

    Reply
    • Smith3D says:

      if the settings are minor I can recompile one for you. Just write your values here. To compile on your own, we have shared configuration.h somewhere in the guide too.

      Reply
    • Basti James says:

      you don’t need to recompile. head on over to pronterface or any terminal. Use the m851 command to set your new probe offsets. M503 to check, M851 to edit, and M500 then M501 to save. And M503 again to verify your changes. 🙂

      Reply
  4. Carlo says:

    Thx for the clear instructions and firmware. I finally had the courage to install my BLTouch and it works perfect. Could you add a short description how to set the X/Y offset. (#dummyrequest)

    Reply
  5. Brian says:

    Hello! First, thank you for making this awesome firmware.

    I am wondering how could I modify the grid size when I go to perform the ABL operation, i.e. instead of touching the bed in a 3×3 grid how could I change it to a 4×4, 4×5, 5×4, 5×5, 6×6, 7×7, etc grid? Would I have to change that in the configuration.h file? How would I recompile the .bin file?

    Also, does the firmware currently use a planar (matrix) or bilinear (mesh) grid? Is this something I could switch between if I say switch between a glass bed and a spring steel flexible bed?

    Thank you for your assistance!
    Brian

    Reply
    • Smith3D says:

      We have added 4×4 and 5×5 variation in the guide. And yes, look for #define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X in configuration and change its value from 3 to 4/5/6/7. It uses Bilinear Mesh Grid. Switching bed won’t matter much as running ABL once will be enough. There are many tutorial out there in compiling your own marlin, you can start with the configuration.h we shared in our guide.

      Reply
      • Basti James says:

        Hi Smith3D,

        I really like your firmware. Just like what the guy above said, I too, tried to change the grid points for maximum resolution. however, if I change it using your config.h and config_adv.h file and compile, the Z-offset does not work anymore. Are there any more files I need to update to enable the z-offset and also enable the Z-offset tool menu? I am kinda stumped here if I use the config.h you have attached and compile myself. That’s why I still use your recent *.bin file even if it is 3×3 mesh. I switched to glass bed for your 3×3 because my warped PEI sheet needs at least a 7×7 mesh for ABL to function properly. I hope you can assist me with my dilemma. 🙂

        Thanks a lot. I hope you can post my comment this time 🙂

        P.S.

        Am I the only one here that experience the z-offset do not save? I have to re-enter the z-offset every start of the print (during the skirt laydown) 🙂

        Reply
        • Adam Tabor says:

          For the preheat PLA any reason not to make it 200/60 vs the 185/50 that’s in there now? Some firmwares add a preheat config so you can edit and save your own preferred values.

          Reply
      • Brian says:

        Thank you for being so helpful and going out of your way to publish the 4×4 and 5×5! I will try the 5×5 and see how it goes, worst case scenario I end up learning how to compile Marlin haha.

        I also noticed a small issue when working with the z offset tool where the z axis motor would twitch foward and backwards and not actually advance thus the process was a bit difficult. What I found to work best was use to set my offset to zero, home, go to a value and see whether that worked (i.e. try -1.1) then repeat the process but -1.15 or -1.25 depending on how far from the bed I previously was. I just completed a print where my distance from the bed was close but not spot on and I know this is because the center of my heatbed is slightly lower than the rest of itself and hopefully 5×5 ABL will help out. Just wanted to share in case anyone else experiences this!

        Reply
  6. Janitor says:

    Hey! First of all, thank you for your awesome work! Everything works as expected! 🙂
    Is there a possibility to export the mesh data and be able to see how banana the bed is?

    Reply
  7. Russ Wetmore says:

    I installed your firmware this evening. While it seems to perform bed leveling just fine, when I go to print something it homes in the center of the bed then goes off to the back right corner and cranks my extruder up to Warp Ten. The only mod I’ve made to my Ender 3 V2 is a dual-gear extruder attachment which ups my extruder e-steps to 143 and change. Still, that shouldn’t be enough to cause this behavior. I’ve checked and rechecked the gcode I’m trying to print, and it’s standard PrusaSlicer generated gcode with the added M420 S1 Z2 after the initial G28. I’m stumped.

    Reply
    • Russ Wetmore says:

      Ah, never mind. After some Googling it turns out to be a too-long filename. PrusaSlicer likes to make really L O N G filenames. ?

      Reply
  8. JDog says:

    Hey, If I want to do a bed level test before every print do I need to add both G29 and M420 commands or just one of them?

    Thanks! Great work on the firmware by the way

    Reply
  9. Basti says:

    Thanks for the update! I have been following your guides. 🙂 However, with the latest update, after rewiring the BLTOUCH cables to the updated one, I still encounter z-offset issues. I did the sequence, AUX bed levelling, Homing, Bed Leveling, Homing, and the Z-offset tool. but when I print, it does not follow the offset (paper-thin). And when I adjust the z-offset thru the “tune” page, it does not respond as expected. SOmetimes my offset goes beyond the one specified on the “z-offset tool”. From -1.62, it sometimes go up to -2.98, and sometimes not responsive at all. I hope you can help me on what else to check or if this is still a firmware issue. Thanks a lot! 🙂

    Reply
    • Smith3D says:

      Let me check if I can replicate this issue. For now, you can use z offset tool to set once, and then go back out and back into z offset tool so the printer can home z and show you the true z offset. Repeat it until you get a good value. Also, remember to store the settings (if you are changing it mid-print via “Tune”)

      Reply
    • Brian says:

      Hi,
      So after a bit of tinkering I am able to get the printer to print and reasonably well. Aux level and z-offset tool work. Print comes out nice. But after a print the bl touch will probe in mid air and never travel down the Z access. Can’t l use the Aux leveling, changing the z offset results in no movement. First time this happened turning off for 10 minutes seemed to work. Second time no change after long restart. Reflashing firmware to see if that fixes. Any ideas?

      Reply
  10. Brian K Blake says:

    Excited to try this new version! What is your max temp setting in this firmware? I haven’t ventured into editing firmware yet, but I have installed an E3D V6 and am also going to be testing a Mosquito, and I need to adjust temp settings and thermistor settings sometime soon. Unfortunately, for now, my temp settings aren’t accurate, and the standard 260 limit isn’t allowing me to get hot enough for some things. Any chance your max temp is set higher than 260?

    Reply
    • Smith3D says:

      I have checked the config and the max temp is set at 275. I believe your issue can be fixed with “PID Tuning” as it’s a must do after changing hotend.

      Reply
      • Brian K Blake says:

        It looks like I need to change some firmware settings for the V6 hot end and thermistor. Do I just need to download your Marlin config files, make my changes and then replace default Marlin config files with these, make the .bin and update?

        Reply
        • Daniel says:

          Same question here. Can I run the PID tuning while connected with micro USB or it’s needed to adjust the Marlin config files as Brian was saying? If it is possible with micro USB, how it is the procedures? Thank you

          Reply
  11. Tim says:

    I noticed on the HOME screen there is obviously a new LEVEL icon.

    I know this doesn’t pertain to your .bin update but I am trying to understand the additional firmware update of the DISPLAY by taking apart and updating the display firmware via MicroSD in the display. Do you know if this is necessary in order to get new menu icons, graphics etc? Or can this be done also with just 1 .bin file the typical way when updating the mainboard? I.e. update BOTH mainboard and display board at the same time? And does the DWIN_SET Folder/files need to be also present, or is everything compiled in 1 .bin file?

    Thank you for yhe help.

    Tim

    Reply
      • Tim says:

        Thank you.

        I see the same AUTOLEVEL icon used is the SAME as the AUTOHOME icon, so maybe that is why no need to update the display firmware. It’s already there to be used instead of a newly created or “different” icon. i.e. a HAPPY FACE icon. WOuld assume the display would need to be updated if a new icon or startup screen needs to be used.
        btw, like the idea of putting a WHITE border around each of the icons for better visibility at different viewing angles.

        Reply
  12. Brian K Blake says:

    Any chance you will do an update to this firmware that allows the BL Touch to connect completely to the built in port so the Z Axis stop can stay?

    Reply
    • Smith3D says:

      Still testing out the configuration, meanwhile you can try the v1.1.1 bltouch firmware by creality in our other guide, it uses the built in port.

      Reply
  13. Christopher St. John says:

    In addition to the other problems I’m experiencing, when I print anything, the head moves to the back right corner and just pumps out gobs and gobs of plastic without moving the head any further.

    If I stop the print and then restart it, the display shows the same percentage as when it was stopped.

    And the print speed seems to be randomly assigned. I’ve tried creating a new Cura profile as the other commenter suggested but that isn’t working for me.

    It smells like a pointer math problem or uninitialized variables.

    Reply
  14. Christopher St. John says:

    I’m having the same issue. I have it set to 80mm/s print speed in Cura and the status screen during a print shows 811%

    Reply
  15. Richard Holmes says:

    i just installed everything according to the guide and I have the same issue with the person who had the tip mash into the plate. I turn it on, hit the z-tool function and it lowers until the nozzle mashes into the bed. I have the spacer on. is the bltouch tip supposed to be lower than the nozzle? mine is just higher than the nozzle even with the spacer. Ender 3 v2. Thanks

    Reply
    • Christopher Godoy Canevit says:

      How did you get passed the nozzle crashing? I’ve reflashed multiple times and reseated the connections, but I still keep encountering the issue and can’t get past this. When I turn the system on the BLTouch drops the pin and lifts it up multiple times, but then it stays up, with a red indicator. I’m at a loss here on how to solve my problem.

      Reply
        • Hanzala Chaudry says:

          I have the bl touch installed correctly and flashed the firmware. the needle tests itself when i start the printer but when i auto level or home the bed, the nozzle crashes into the bed as the probe does not deploy. Ive tried everything and i really need help please.

          Reply
    • Christopher St. John says:

      Thanks so much for putting this together. I am having the same problem that Brian K Blake had, and I think I’ll probably remove the bltouch so I can get going again and print a spacer, but I think the firmware might not be appropriately handling positive Z offset. The Z offset tool works very well and is able to reliably put the nozzle back at the correct height, but during auto-leveling the nozzle is just getting smashed into the bed. The sensor is definitely hitting the bed in time, but it just keeps going down during auto-leveling, even though Z Offset tool works fine. It’s not an issue of an uneven bed, because we’re at the center of the bed for both operations.

      Reply
      • Christopher St. John says:

        Ok, I got myself a spacer and I’m still having a couple of issues.

        1) Z offset doesn’t save through a restart. Is this expected?
        2) If I run Z-offset tool and adjust the offset, let’s say for example I find that -1.50 is the ideal setting. Then I go back and run Z-offset tool again, and the nozzle will now set itself just a bit higher than it was before. Ok, fine. I adjust it further and find a new offset of -1.75. Just to check it, I run Z-offset tool again, and again, it’s too high! I adjust it to -2.00. Rinse and repeat. What’s going on?

        Reply
  17. David Spearing says:

    Hey there, flashed the latest firmware and now when I try and preheat the nozzle it gets to 89deg and the screen freezes up and octoprint loses communication with it. I tried manually with octoprint disconnected and I get the same thing. Is anyone else having any issues?

    Reply
  18. Reza says:

    Hi, with the new update it appears that the AUX leveling no longer works – really like this feature. Any way to make this work again?

    Reply
      • Reza says:

        Hey, thanks for all the work. Is there something which I am doing wrong? After installing the new update and following the rest of the guide, printing started off going to the top and moving in a horizontal manner (priming) without starting to print the gcode. I reverted to the previous version and the issue is gone.

        Reply
        • Reza says:

          Just an update, this has been resolved by itself after re-installing the new update. Not sure what happened there.

          Reply
  21. Brian K Blake says:

    I did all this. It gets through the leveling process fine, as well as the alternate leveling. All that stuff worked just fine. Then when I print, the head starts out a half inch above the bed. After going through all the spacing issues and re-leveling over and over, now I’m just getting messages in Octoprint that the firmware is reporting an error and it won’t start a print… I’m going to reset everything and try again…

    Reply
    • Brian K Blake says:

      Also, I can’t print a spacer right now because I can’t actually print… Need to try and redo the original z-axis, redo the original wiring, reflash the original firmware, relevel the bed, and hope I can print again first…

      Reply
      • Smith3D says:

        ” Then when I print, the head starts out a half inch above the bed” – It does sounds like Z-Offset issue. Remember to press “Store Settings” after setting Z-offset ya.

        Reply
  22. Brian K Blake says:

    I managed to get past that, but now when I run a print, it levels, but then starts the print with the printhead about 15mm above the build surface?

    Reply
  23. Brian K Blake says:

    I successfully installed your firmware, and everything works fine until I try to use the Z offset tool. It homes, then goes to the center and mashes the hotend tip into the build surface, and then does nothing else. I just have to turn the printer off. This is happenong after I leveled, following your instructions and testing with paper.

    Reply
    • Smith3D says:

      You will notice that we have included bltouch wiring photo at the bottom right corner of the pin setup photo in guide. Follow the color from left to right of bltouch and switch the pin to its respective position when needed. (The end of the extension wire has a lock/unlock mechanism where you can pull out and switch sides). Please note that you will only need BLTouch + Extension Wire from the kit you purchased.

      Reply
      • Mohamed Attar says:

        Thank you very much, just managed to swap the wires on the connector around accordingly, and was much easier than expected with the wife helping to pull the wires while I unlocked the clips 😉

        Will try connecting it, mounting it, and testing it a bit later once my prints have finished.

        If I go silent, assume it worked 🙂

        Thanks again!

        Reply
      • Stanislaw Karcz says:

        When I use sensors with trianglelabs I always have to swap the black and white wires because it is not working properly. I propose to manually force the stop during the first start.
        Additionally, JTS 5 pin JST XH2.54 connector can be used for the motherboard.
        Great job thank you everything works from the first start.
        Regards

        Reply
    • sean says:

      I had the same. just needed to swap a couple of wiores around. you can see in the pic which wires go where, so just ignore colours

      Reply
  27. David Spearing says:

    Hi, I installed the firmware that was provided and my printer keeps trying to print at 711% speed. Something seems very off. How can I fix this???

    Reply
    • Smith3D says:

      Somehow it feels like it’s the settings on your slicer. We have not touched any values regarding print speed in the marlin firmware. You can also try flashing back to stock firmware and see if the issue still occur, do let me know. Cheers

      Reply
      • David Spearing says:

        Thanks for the reply, it seems it was something in my Cura profile. I’m not sure how it got changed (I’m still an infant when it comes to 3D Printing), but I created new profile and it seems to be working now.

        Reply
    • Frank says:

      Did you ever get this to work correctly? My printer wants to print at 622% speed for some reason. I try to change it in the tune section and it seems to change but as soon as I go back to main screen it changes back to 622%

      Any ideas what could be causing this? I haven’t changed anything in my slicer (Cura)

      Reply
      • David Spearing says:

        I created a whole new profile and it seems to be much better not. Not sure what screwed up my old profile I had been using.

        Reply
        • Foxhill says:

          Using Cura + SD-card, I had the issue that the printer sets speed extremely high, and also the issue where the printer tries to print only in the far righ-rear corner, or sometimes on the far right edge.

          When printing from Pronterface, both issues did not occur. Also, the print speeds is not the same every time, but ranges from about 700~900%. These two things make me think that the problems are not from a Cura profile.

          I have added start G-code to bring the nozzle back to X0, Y0 and set the speed back to 100%. That fixes the issue for more (or hides). This makes me think that the M420 command makes the printer forget about it’s position and speed. Maybe I am doing something wrong..

          I will investigate myself. If someone with more experience can share an idea I would appreciate.

          Here is the G-code I added to start after G28:
          G1 X0 Y0 F2000 ; move to X0 Y0
          M420 S1 Z2 ;Enable ABL using saved Mesh and Fade Height
          M220 S100; set speed to 100%

          Two issues when using Cura + SD-card.

          Printer sets speed to 700%~900%. The speed sometimes differs, but is always extremely high. When printing the same file from Pronterface, this issue does not happen. I temporarily fixed this by adding a line in the start G-code to bring the nozzle back to corner 0, 0.

          Printer goes to the far right edge and will start printing only on the far right edge, or sometimes even only on the far right/rear corner. When printing the same file from Pronterface, this issue does not happen. I temporarily fixed this by adding a line in the start G-code to set the print speed to 100%.

          Considering both issues do not happen when printing from Pronterface, and considering which G-code ‘fixes’ help, I think that this problem is not in the Cura profile. It seems either G28 or

          When using SD-card + Cura, with this firmware my printer will set the speed to 700~900%

          Speed is set at different (high) %,

          Reply
          • Foxhill says:

            I can confirm that a short name for the G-code file works, and a long name (e.g. 30 characters) causes the speed and nozzle location to get messed up. From SD-card at least.

            With short filenames, the firmware works like a charm. Thanks.

            (Sorry for the long post above. Second half was sort of notes that can be removed by moderator if possible.)

    • Mad_Al says:

      Hi, this is due to the file name you are printing being longer than 23 characters. Cut the name down and it should work fine. happy printing.

      Reply
    • Christopher Robert Locke says:

      Your filename is probably too long. there is a marlin bug on the printer going crazy if your gcode name is 22+ char long before the “.gcode”

      Reply
  28. pedro says:

    thanks for the firmware it is working wonderful, could you also add the white square on the menu for the printing task.
    best regards.

    Reply
  29. reza says:

    After searching online for a few days, this is by far the easiest and fuss-free setup for bltouch and ender 3 v2. Works very well. Thanks for this guide

    Reply
  30. Irv Shapiro says:

    Outstanding work and a welcome addition for the community. Will your firmware work with the BLTouch v2.0? I have one I purchase about a year ago from Creality that has been sitting in a drawer and thought I would try it with the Ender 3 V2. In addition I run a YouTube channel and would you be ok with me producing a video about your firmware and the installation of a BLTouch on the Ender 3 V2? All the best. Irv

    Reply
      • ci3jk4FPV says:

        Hi,
        Thank you veeeery much for this firmware.
        The BLtouch and aux leveling part works like a charm.

        Only thing that I’m having problem with is the Extruder steps/mm calibration. I upgraded to 3:1 ratio extruder, so my steps now should be around 420steps/mm, unfortunately I cant go more than 186 steps for some reason. Looks like its blocked somewhere in the firmware. Please look at this when you will be making a new version 🙂

        Reply
        • ci3jk4FPV says:

          I forgot to mention that I have tried only V2.0.X.9 (High Speed) – 5×5 version – maybe the other ones are different (I can check in the evening).

          Reply
          • ci3jk4FPV says:

            Sorry for posting under posts. I found #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80, 80, 400, 93 } in configuration.h and probably I could compile using that changed file, but for now You only posted configs for 2.0.8 and 2.0.7 and I cant find your config for the current version of firmware.
            I cant find other anything mentioning this limit of 186steps/mm on the extruder – maybe its just a display bug and I can go all the way up but simply cant see it on the display?

          • ci3jk4FPV says:

            I have compiled my own firmware using your latest configs, but changed the extruder to 420 by default.
            It worked fine and the extruder was calibrated correctly, but I have lost the aux leveling menu. So I reflashed with your original firmware and now I can calibrate extruder as and have your firmware working.

            Now I want to add a filament runout sensor, but since I know that I will loose the aux leveling I’m waiting for a new version (that might have filament runout sensor enabled??? 🙂 ) from You 🙂

        • ci3jk4FPV says:

          I will try the to add the m412 S1 in cura, but from what I have compiled, filament runout sensor might be triggered this way but the #define ADVANCED_PAUSE_FEATURE in configuration_adv.h has to be defined and set for it to work.
          Maybe in next release?
          As for the runout sensor itself its really basic – just a microswitch – for example from z axis since we no longer need it with bltouch installed:) With the ender3v2 its just plug and play so really worth it.

          Is it possible for you to share a complete set of files for the current 5×5 build? I would love to have all those sweet features from your build included, but compiling just from config_adv and config.h is almost like compiling from original marlin branch – most of your work is not there.

          Reply

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